1933 Bourjois Perfume
Description: 1933 Bourjois Perfume original vintage advertisement. Springtime in Paris line starting at $1.25 to $10.00. Rare ad!
B & W
Color
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
10 inches x 13 inches
25 cm x 33 cm
Artist:
Leonard
Country: USA
Grading:
Excellent; 1/4 inch tear at very bottom, easily matted when framed.
Friday, November 24, 2006
1928 D'Orsay Le Dandy Perfume
1928 D'Orsay Le Dandy Perfume
Description: 1928 D'Orsay Le Dandy Perfume original vintage French advertisement.
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
11 inches x 15 inches
28 cm x 38 cm
Artist:
Unknown
Country: FRANCE
Grading:
Excellent
Description: 1928 D'Orsay Le Dandy Perfume original vintage French advertisement.
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
11 inches x 15 inches
28 cm x 38 cm
Artist:
Unknown
Country: FRANCE
Grading:
Excellent
1926 Worth Perfume
1926 Worth Perfume
Description: 1926 Worth Perfume original vintage French advertisement.
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
11 inches x 15 inches
28 cm x 38 cm
Artist:
Unknown
Country: FRANCE
Grading:
Excellent
Description: 1926 Worth Perfume original vintage French advertisement.
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
11 inches x 15 inches
28 cm x 38 cm
Artist:
Unknown
Country: FRANCE
Grading:
Excellent
1926 Lentheric Perfume
1926 Lentheric Perfume
Description: 1926 Lentheric Perfume original vintage French advertisement. New release for 1927 entitled "Le Matin au Bois."
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
11 inches x 15 inches
28 cm x 38 cm
Artist:
Jacques Leclerc
Country: FRANCE
Grading:
Excellent
Description: 1926 Lentheric Perfume original vintage French advertisement. New release for 1927 entitled "Le Matin au Bois."
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
11 inches x 15 inches
28 cm x 38 cm
Artist:
Jacques Leclerc
Country: FRANCE
Grading:
Excellent
1926 Forvil No. 5 Perfume
1926 Forvil No. 5 Perfume
Description: 1926 Forvil No. 5 Perfume original vintage French advertisement.
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
11 inches x 15 inches
28 cm x 38 cm
Artist:
Paul Dusau
Country: FRANCE
Grading:
Excellent
Description: 1926 Forvil No. 5 Perfume original vintage French advertisement.
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
11 inches x 15 inches
28 cm x 38 cm
Artist:
Paul Dusau
Country: FRANCE
Grading:
Excellent
1925 Lentheric Perfume
1925 Lentheric Perfume
Description: 1925 Lentheric Perfume original vintage French advertisement. Gorgeous illustration in black & white.
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
11 inches x 15 inches
28 cm x 38 cm
Artist:
Unknown
Country: FRANCE
Grading:
Excellent
Description: 1925 Lentheric Perfume original vintage French advertisement. Gorgeous illustration in black & white.
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
11 inches x 15 inches
28 cm x 38 cm
Artist:
Unknown
Country: FRANCE
Grading:
Excellent
1924 Houbigant Perfume
1924 Houbigant Perfume
Description: 1924 Houbigant French Perfume original vintage advertisement. Features perfume, toilet water, lip stick, face powder and compact with original list prices. "The leading French perfumer."
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size:
Full Page
6 inches x 10 inches
15 cm x 25 cm
Country: USA
Grading:
Excellent
Description: 1924 Houbigant French Perfume original vintage advertisement. Features perfume, toilet water, lip stick, face powder and compact with original list prices. "The leading French perfumer."
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size:
Full Page
6 inches x 10 inches
15 cm x 25 cm
Country: USA
Grading:
Excellent
1922 Houbigant Perfume
1922 Houbigant Perfume
Description: 1922 Houbigant French Perfumes original vintage advertisement. Illustration of Empress Eugenie pictured in 1857. Only $1 per bottle, original list price.
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
6 inches x 10 inches
15 cm x 25 cm
Artist:
Unknown
Country: USA
Grading:
Excellent
Description: 1922 Houbigant French Perfumes original vintage advertisement. Illustration of Empress Eugenie pictured in 1857. Only $1 per bottle, original list price.
Color
B & W
Photo
Illustrated
Size: Full Page
6 inches x 10 inches
15 cm x 25 cm
Artist:
Unknown
Country: USA
Grading:
Excellent
Chopard Casmir
Chopard Casmir
Casmir was created by Chopard in 1991. Top notes are fruity and include mango, coconut, peach, and bergamot, with floral middle notes of jasmine, geranium, and lily of the valley (muguet), on a strong base of amber, musk, vanilla, sandalwood, and patchouli. Casmir captures the charm and mystery of the Orient in a beautiful, exotic perfume. Scintillating!
First, I must confess that I'm not a fan of Orientals. I don't like opopanax (myrrh), which seems to be common in orientals, I generally don't care for patchouli (in rare instances it's okay, but mostly I really just plain don't like it), and while I like sandalwood, I like it only in certain situations and with certain combinations.
That being said (because I want to make my own bias clear), this is not a bad fragrance. It's quite strong, and I'm sorry I put as much on as I did, but that's not the fault of the perfume (next time I wear it, and yes, I probably will wear it again when I'm feeling like something exotic, I'll be more judicious in the application). The patchouli note is very strong, but the overall fragance seems fairly well balanced and it's not terribly overwhelming in that way that, in my opinion, Orientals can be. It's smooth, and warm, not particularly spicy, and as it mellows into the lower notes, I'm finding it quite pleasant, which is saying a lot for me, who doesn't really like Orientals.
I may need to further explore the Oriental family. I'll probably never like Shalimar (as venerable and wonderfully made as that fine fragrance is), but I might like Opium or Cinnabar or.... who knows. I can say that I do like Casmir, though it'll never become an "everyday" fragrance for me. It's a nice change of pace from my usual florals, I must say.
Casmir was created by Chopard in 1991. Top notes are fruity and include mango, coconut, peach, and bergamot, with floral middle notes of jasmine, geranium, and lily of the valley (muguet), on a strong base of amber, musk, vanilla, sandalwood, and patchouli. Casmir captures the charm and mystery of the Orient in a beautiful, exotic perfume. Scintillating!
First, I must confess that I'm not a fan of Orientals. I don't like opopanax (myrrh), which seems to be common in orientals, I generally don't care for patchouli (in rare instances it's okay, but mostly I really just plain don't like it), and while I like sandalwood, I like it only in certain situations and with certain combinations.
That being said (because I want to make my own bias clear), this is not a bad fragrance. It's quite strong, and I'm sorry I put as much on as I did, but that's not the fault of the perfume (next time I wear it, and yes, I probably will wear it again when I'm feeling like something exotic, I'll be more judicious in the application). The patchouli note is very strong, but the overall fragance seems fairly well balanced and it's not terribly overwhelming in that way that, in my opinion, Orientals can be. It's smooth, and warm, not particularly spicy, and as it mellows into the lower notes, I'm finding it quite pleasant, which is saying a lot for me, who doesn't really like Orientals.
I may need to further explore the Oriental family. I'll probably never like Shalimar (as venerable and wonderfully made as that fine fragrance is), but I might like Opium or Cinnabar or.... who knows. I can say that I do like Casmir, though it'll never become an "everyday" fragrance for me. It's a nice change of pace from my usual florals, I must say.
Guerlain Shalimar
Guerlain Shalimar
Designed in 1925 by Guerlain, this venerable scent is a refined oriental, and is often said to be the quintessential oriental. This sensual, ultra-feminine fragrance contains a rich blend of bergamot, lemon, iris, and patchouli, and is accented with vanilla, sandalwood, and musk. Shalimar is exceptionally well made, and surprisingly chic for its age. Utterly classic, utterly romantic, utterly unforgettable.
I've admitted before that I really don't care for Orientals much, and I'm going to admit that I don't really like and I don't ever wear Shalimar. However, I can appreciate it for what it is: classic, sensual, elegant, and, on the right woman, stunning.
This fragrance has a long history and it's the prototype for all Orientals. Shalimar could say to Opium, "Opium, I am your father! Search your notes, you know it to be true!" and Opium would have to shout, "Noooooooo!" and leap into a big hole. Pretty much all Orientals are made in the shadow of Shalimar, which isn't to say that they can't be original, only that Shalimar is the original of originals.
My grandmother wore it, my mother wore it (I remember the pretty bottle with the blue tassel that she had on her dresser, although of course, these days we don't recommend keeping fine fragrances on your dresser because the light is bad for the perfume). Probably a couple of aunties wore it, and maybe a teacher or two. Fact is, women still wear it, older women as well as younger ones. People adore this perfume, and with good reason.
I have my own reasons for not wearing this perfume (mostly I really have a bad reaction to the strong opopanax (myrrh) note), but what I'm trying to make clear is that this is a perfume worthy of investigating. It's wonderfully made, it's rich, it's exotic, and it's been a favorite of women all around the world for close to a century. And while I believe that it's well worth checking out, I strongly recommend that you try it first. Perfume is a very individual thing, very personal, and while I don't like this (hey, I'm a floral girl and I make no apologies for that), you may very well, and you may later thank me for suggesting you try it. You might not like it any more than I do, but hey, if you do find you like it, you may find you've got a new passion for a venerable, timeless, classically feminine fragrace, and that's surely not a bad thing.
Designed in 1925 by Guerlain, this venerable scent is a refined oriental, and is often said to be the quintessential oriental. This sensual, ultra-feminine fragrance contains a rich blend of bergamot, lemon, iris, and patchouli, and is accented with vanilla, sandalwood, and musk. Shalimar is exceptionally well made, and surprisingly chic for its age. Utterly classic, utterly romantic, utterly unforgettable.
I've admitted before that I really don't care for Orientals much, and I'm going to admit that I don't really like and I don't ever wear Shalimar. However, I can appreciate it for what it is: classic, sensual, elegant, and, on the right woman, stunning.
This fragrance has a long history and it's the prototype for all Orientals. Shalimar could say to Opium, "Opium, I am your father! Search your notes, you know it to be true!" and Opium would have to shout, "Noooooooo!" and leap into a big hole. Pretty much all Orientals are made in the shadow of Shalimar, which isn't to say that they can't be original, only that Shalimar is the original of originals.
My grandmother wore it, my mother wore it (I remember the pretty bottle with the blue tassel that she had on her dresser, although of course, these days we don't recommend keeping fine fragrances on your dresser because the light is bad for the perfume). Probably a couple of aunties wore it, and maybe a teacher or two. Fact is, women still wear it, older women as well as younger ones. People adore this perfume, and with good reason.
I have my own reasons for not wearing this perfume (mostly I really have a bad reaction to the strong opopanax (myrrh) note), but what I'm trying to make clear is that this is a perfume worthy of investigating. It's wonderfully made, it's rich, it's exotic, and it's been a favorite of women all around the world for close to a century. And while I believe that it's well worth checking out, I strongly recommend that you try it first. Perfume is a very individual thing, very personal, and while I don't like this (hey, I'm a floral girl and I make no apologies for that), you may very well, and you may later thank me for suggesting you try it. You might not like it any more than I do, but hey, if you do find you like it, you may find you've got a new passion for a venerable, timeless, classically feminine fragrace, and that's surely not a bad thing.
Lancôme Trésor
Lancôme TrésorSun,
Created by Lancôme in 1990, and named after the French word for treasure, Trésor is a fresh and spirited fragrance. This sophisticated, floral, semi-oriental fragrance has notes of rose, apricot blossom, peach, iris, jasmine, musk, and vanilla. This tantalizing fragrance is great for office and evening wear. Outstanding!
If I could wear only one perfume for the rest of my life (perish that thought, but for the sake of argument), it would be this one. The name means "treasure" in French, and it lives up to that. The original "face" of this perfume, Isabella Rosselini, said that it's like "a rose at sunset". This fragrance is remarkably sophsticated, smoothly floral and just slightly exotic (it's technically a floral-oriental), and is just plain gorgeous from top note to bottom. It is my "true love" fragrance (not to be confused with Elizabeth Arden "True Love" which I'll review at another time), the one to which I always return. I love it, and it loves me.
As with all things, your mileage may vary. If you don't like rose (which is the major note of this fragrance), then you might not find this anywhere near as appealing as I do, and if you prefer a spicier or more playful fragrance, well, Trésor isn't really either. I do recommend that you give it a try next time you walk past the Lancôme counter in a department store, particularly if you like a nice, smooth, sophsticated and elgant floral.
Created by Lancôme in 1990, and named after the French word for treasure, Trésor is a fresh and spirited fragrance. This sophisticated, floral, semi-oriental fragrance has notes of rose, apricot blossom, peach, iris, jasmine, musk, and vanilla. This tantalizing fragrance is great for office and evening wear. Outstanding!
If I could wear only one perfume for the rest of my life (perish that thought, but for the sake of argument), it would be this one. The name means "treasure" in French, and it lives up to that. The original "face" of this perfume, Isabella Rosselini, said that it's like "a rose at sunset". This fragrance is remarkably sophsticated, smoothly floral and just slightly exotic (it's technically a floral-oriental), and is just plain gorgeous from top note to bottom. It is my "true love" fragrance (not to be confused with Elizabeth Arden "True Love" which I'll review at another time), the one to which I always return. I love it, and it loves me.
As with all things, your mileage may vary. If you don't like rose (which is the major note of this fragrance), then you might not find this anywhere near as appealing as I do, and if you prefer a spicier or more playful fragrance, well, Trésor isn't really either. I do recommend that you give it a try next time you walk past the Lancôme counter in a department store, particularly if you like a nice, smooth, sophsticated and elgant floral.
Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers
Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers
Introduced in 1993, winner of the Fifi Award for Best Women’s Fragrance in 1994, Sunflowers for women is a refined, aquatic, upbeat fragrance. Its fragrant nature explores essences of melon, peach and jasmine. Blended with notes of tea rose, sandalwood and moss, Sunflowers is a casual, spunky, cheerful type of fragrance. Fresh and lovely!
And on a personal level, I love this one. It really is fresh, and while normally you wouldn't think of perfumes as being "cheerful", this one is. Sunflowers is spunky, fun, cheerful, and extremely appealing. I've never met anyone who disliked it (I'm sure there must be people who do, but I've never met any of them).
By the way, it doesn't smell like actual sunflowers. I think the name is meant to refer to "sunny" flowers, not the actual sunflower (which, in my opinion, don't smell very nice at all!).
Sunflowers is an extremely affordable fragrance. There's nothing wrong (in my opinion) with expensive perfumes, but when you find a really good one that you like and it's also very affordable, well, there's something to be said for that!
Sunflowers is generally available primarily in an Eau de Toilette strength. I haven't personally seen it in anything stronger, but pehaps it's out there and just uncommon.
Suitable for daytime and casual use, and I would feel comfortable wearing it to more formal occasions, as well.
Introduced in 1993, winner of the Fifi Award for Best Women’s Fragrance in 1994, Sunflowers for women is a refined, aquatic, upbeat fragrance. Its fragrant nature explores essences of melon, peach and jasmine. Blended with notes of tea rose, sandalwood and moss, Sunflowers is a casual, spunky, cheerful type of fragrance. Fresh and lovely!
And on a personal level, I love this one. It really is fresh, and while normally you wouldn't think of perfumes as being "cheerful", this one is. Sunflowers is spunky, fun, cheerful, and extremely appealing. I've never met anyone who disliked it (I'm sure there must be people who do, but I've never met any of them).
By the way, it doesn't smell like actual sunflowers. I think the name is meant to refer to "sunny" flowers, not the actual sunflower (which, in my opinion, don't smell very nice at all!).
Sunflowers is an extremely affordable fragrance. There's nothing wrong (in my opinion) with expensive perfumes, but when you find a really good one that you like and it's also very affordable, well, there's something to be said for that!
Sunflowers is generally available primarily in an Eau de Toilette strength. I haven't personally seen it in anything stronger, but pehaps it's out there and just uncommon.
Suitable for daytime and casual use, and I would feel comfortable wearing it to more formal occasions, as well.
Coco Chanel on Perfume
Coco Chanel on Perfume
It is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory of fashion, that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure. - Coco Chanel
It is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory of fashion, that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure. - Coco Chanel
Coco Chanel on Perfume
Coco Chanel on Perfume
It is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory of fashion, that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure. - Coco Chanel
It is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory of fashion, that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure. - Coco Chanel
Armani Sensi
Armani Sensi
Mon, 20 Feb 06
Sensi is as sensual as light cashmir; oriental romance with italian spirit. Introduced in 2003, it is a sweet, light, oriental-floral blend. The main scent is fresh vanilla which is accompanied by amber, benzoin, jasmine, and exotic woods. Fabulous!
I didn't expect to like Sensi. I'm not a big fan of vanilla. Well, let me rephrase that. I thought I wasn't a fan of vanilla, but the fact is, I do like it, I just don't like it when it's too sweet or cloying. It turns out that I do actually quite like vanilla in many cases (I thought I didn't like asparagus, too, until I found out that I do like it if it's prepared well; same thing here, I think).
The initial notes are very light, mostly citrus, and then it quickly settles down into the sweet-but-not-too-sweet middle notes and eventually works its way into a very pleasant warm vanilla.
One of the things I like about this fragrance is that it's subtle. It's very sensual, but it's not all "in your face" about it like some perfumes are. And, of course, it's not too sweet, despite the vanilla base. It's nicely sophsticated in a soft, feminine, inviting way that isn't overpowering. I think you could happily wear this in an office setting as well as you could wear it on more formal or showy occasions.
I haven't had much personal experience of Armani fragrances, but if this is indicative of the kind of things they produce, I'll definitely have to look into their line further.
Mon, 20 Feb 06
Sensi is as sensual as light cashmir; oriental romance with italian spirit. Introduced in 2003, it is a sweet, light, oriental-floral blend. The main scent is fresh vanilla which is accompanied by amber, benzoin, jasmine, and exotic woods. Fabulous!
I didn't expect to like Sensi. I'm not a big fan of vanilla. Well, let me rephrase that. I thought I wasn't a fan of vanilla, but the fact is, I do like it, I just don't like it when it's too sweet or cloying. It turns out that I do actually quite like vanilla in many cases (I thought I didn't like asparagus, too, until I found out that I do like it if it's prepared well; same thing here, I think).
The initial notes are very light, mostly citrus, and then it quickly settles down into the sweet-but-not-too-sweet middle notes and eventually works its way into a very pleasant warm vanilla.
One of the things I like about this fragrance is that it's subtle. It's very sensual, but it's not all "in your face" about it like some perfumes are. And, of course, it's not too sweet, despite the vanilla base. It's nicely sophsticated in a soft, feminine, inviting way that isn't overpowering. I think you could happily wear this in an office setting as well as you could wear it on more formal or showy occasions.
I haven't had much personal experience of Armani fragrances, but if this is indicative of the kind of things they produce, I'll definitely have to look into their line further.
0909862752
Davidoff Cool Water
My, q10 0909862752
Introduced in 1997, Davidoff Cool Water Woman is a fresh aquatic, with notes of citrus, water lily, jasmine, peach, and sandalwood. Fresh, light, fruity and highly feminine, this is a unique fragrance for the woman who possesses vitality and revels in her sensuality.
I like this one, and I wear it, although not as often as some other fragrances I have, for various reasons. Cool Water Woman was released as a followup to the popular and successful Cool Water for Men (a review I'll do someday when I've got an appropriately sized sample and my husband nearby to wear it for me). This fragrance is deceptively light, pleasantly fruity, slightly sweet (not too sweet, though, and not cloying), and very, very fresh. It's appropriate for young women, but it's not a "girlish" scent (we forty-somethings like it, too). It's also a lot stronger than people tend to imagine, and it's easy to overdo it, I find, so it's a "go lightly" fragrance until you're absolutely sure of how much you can get away with wearing.
I actually find it difficult to describe this one, because it is quite different (and it does, believe me, live up to it's name). It's a cool fragrance, the opening notes are refreshing and cheerful. The middle notes are more solidly floral (mostly jasmine, but also may rose and lily of the valley), and then it settles down eventually into the slightly warmer base notes of peach, mulberry, orris, and vetiver. It does retain its fresh, light character throughout, even in the base notes, which is a surprising trick. I also find that on me, anyway, this one lasts and lasts, a genuine "clinger" of a fragrance.
The best I can say about this fragrance is that if my description sounds at all appealing, go and try some and see for yourself. I wear this one as an "alternative" fragrance for times when my usual staple fragrances just don't suit my mood, but I know people who wear this as their primary or regular scent. It's suitable for many occasions, depending on the woman wearing it, but I'd be as comfortable wearing it to a business meeting as I would to a casual evening out. Lovely fragrance, give it a try.
My, q10 0909862752
Introduced in 1997, Davidoff Cool Water Woman is a fresh aquatic, with notes of citrus, water lily, jasmine, peach, and sandalwood. Fresh, light, fruity and highly feminine, this is a unique fragrance for the woman who possesses vitality and revels in her sensuality.
I like this one, and I wear it, although not as often as some other fragrances I have, for various reasons. Cool Water Woman was released as a followup to the popular and successful Cool Water for Men (a review I'll do someday when I've got an appropriately sized sample and my husband nearby to wear it for me). This fragrance is deceptively light, pleasantly fruity, slightly sweet (not too sweet, though, and not cloying), and very, very fresh. It's appropriate for young women, but it's not a "girlish" scent (we forty-somethings like it, too). It's also a lot stronger than people tend to imagine, and it's easy to overdo it, I find, so it's a "go lightly" fragrance until you're absolutely sure of how much you can get away with wearing.
I actually find it difficult to describe this one, because it is quite different (and it does, believe me, live up to it's name). It's a cool fragrance, the opening notes are refreshing and cheerful. The middle notes are more solidly floral (mostly jasmine, but also may rose and lily of the valley), and then it settles down eventually into the slightly warmer base notes of peach, mulberry, orris, and vetiver. It does retain its fresh, light character throughout, even in the base notes, which is a surprising trick. I also find that on me, anyway, this one lasts and lasts, a genuine "clinger" of a fragrance.
The best I can say about this fragrance is that if my description sounds at all appealing, go and try some and see for yourself. I wear this one as an "alternative" fragrance for times when my usual staple fragrances just don't suit my mood, but I know people who wear this as their primary or regular scent. It's suitable for many occasions, depending on the woman wearing it, but I'd be as comfortable wearing it to a business meeting as I would to a casual evening out. Lovely fragrance, give it a try.
0903288248
Lancôme Miracle Homme
Ngọc:0903288248 HN
Introduced in 2001, Miracle Homme is a sharp, masculine, fresh blend of fresh and spicy florals, with notes of maple leaf, red pepper and oak moss blending into a heart of coffee granita and cedar wood, and base notes of rosewood, gaiac wood, amber, and jasmine. Sensual and surprising!
My husband wears this. He wears it because I chose it for him, really. The thing is, he's not a very perfumey kind of guy (he's not even vaguely metrosexual, although he's also not particularly blokey, either). He can say when he doesn't like something, but that's about it. If I like it and he doesn't hate it, he's okay with it.
Well, I like this one. I wear Miracle (the women's version), myself, and we tried some of this on him when we were out on a perfume smelling expedition (what, doesn't everyone go to the fragrance counters to test stuff?), and I liked it. Still do, actually. I find it pretty sensual, particularly the heart notes as they slowly dissove into the base notes. Mmmm. That coffee/woody scent is very pleasing, indeed.
This opens with the usual sort of light citrus and jasmine that is so common in men's fragrances (that, by the way, is another rant of mine; it's so hard to find men's fragrances that really have unique character, how much bergamot and moss does the world need in it, anyway?). It's fairly fresh, and the top notes can be fairly strong, I find, but that settles down into the yummy, coffee/woody heart notes, which seem to last for a good long while before sliding quietly into the sensual mossy, woody base notes.
I find this fragrance to be subtle but distinctive, and it's nice because it doesn't smell like Everyone Else (you know, those ubiquitious fragrances like CK One or something, the kind that everyone and their uncle wears? and this is nothing against CK One as a fragrance; it's only a comment on how many people wear it!). It's a nice maculine scent, about as floral as you can get and still be "manly" (and anyone reading my reviews knows I'm a big fan of florals, and for the record, I do happen to think it's silly that men aren't allowed to wear floral scents, why on earth not? what's so female about a flower? some flowers are male, some are both, why is it a problem?). This fragrance is also moderately priced. I wouldn't say it's inexpensive, but it's not terribly pricey as these things go.
Definitely worth checking out if you're looking for a nice, fresh, not-too-perfumey masculine fragrance.
Ngọc:0903288248 HN
Introduced in 2001, Miracle Homme is a sharp, masculine, fresh blend of fresh and spicy florals, with notes of maple leaf, red pepper and oak moss blending into a heart of coffee granita and cedar wood, and base notes of rosewood, gaiac wood, amber, and jasmine. Sensual and surprising!
My husband wears this. He wears it because I chose it for him, really. The thing is, he's not a very perfumey kind of guy (he's not even vaguely metrosexual, although he's also not particularly blokey, either). He can say when he doesn't like something, but that's about it. If I like it and he doesn't hate it, he's okay with it.
Well, I like this one. I wear Miracle (the women's version), myself, and we tried some of this on him when we were out on a perfume smelling expedition (what, doesn't everyone go to the fragrance counters to test stuff?), and I liked it. Still do, actually. I find it pretty sensual, particularly the heart notes as they slowly dissove into the base notes. Mmmm. That coffee/woody scent is very pleasing, indeed.
This opens with the usual sort of light citrus and jasmine that is so common in men's fragrances (that, by the way, is another rant of mine; it's so hard to find men's fragrances that really have unique character, how much bergamot and moss does the world need in it, anyway?). It's fairly fresh, and the top notes can be fairly strong, I find, but that settles down into the yummy, coffee/woody heart notes, which seem to last for a good long while before sliding quietly into the sensual mossy, woody base notes.
I find this fragrance to be subtle but distinctive, and it's nice because it doesn't smell like Everyone Else (you know, those ubiquitious fragrances like CK One or something, the kind that everyone and their uncle wears? and this is nothing against CK One as a fragrance; it's only a comment on how many people wear it!). It's a nice maculine scent, about as floral as you can get and still be "manly" (and anyone reading my reviews knows I'm a big fan of florals, and for the record, I do happen to think it's silly that men aren't allowed to wear floral scents, why on earth not? what's so female about a flower? some flowers are male, some are both, why is it a problem?). This fragrance is also moderately priced. I wouldn't say it's inexpensive, but it's not terribly pricey as these things go.
Definitely worth checking out if you're looking for a nice, fresh, not-too-perfumey masculine fragrance.
0988633992
Famous perfumes classified by year of creation
nhi 0988633992
* 1714 : Eau de Cologne by Farina (Johann Maria Farina 1685-1766)
* 1889 : Jicky by Guerlain (Aimé Guerlain)
* 1917 : Chypre by François Coty (François Coty)
* 1919 : Mitsouko by Guerlain (Jacques Guerlain)
* 1919 : Tabac Blond by Caron (Ernest Daltroff)
* 1921 : N°5 by Chanel (Ernest Beaux)
* 1925 : Shalimar by Guerlain (Jacques Guerlain)
* 1927 : Arpège by Lanvin (André Fraysse)
* 1929 : Soir by Paris by Bourjois (Ernest Beaux)
* 1930 : Joy by Jean Patou (Henri Alméras)
* 1934 : Pour Un Homme by Caron (Ernest Daltroff)
* 1944 : Bandit by Robery Piguet (Germaine Cellier)
* 1945 : Femme by Rochas (Edmond Roudnitska)
* 1948 : L'Air du temps by Nina Ricci (Francis Fabron)
* 1956 : Diorissimo by Christian Dior (Edmond Roudnitska)
* 1959 : Monsieur by Givenchy
* 1959 : Cabochard by Parfums Grès (Bernard Chant)
* 1966 : Eau sauvage by Christian Dior (Edmond Roudnitska)
* 1969 : Ô by Lancôme (Robert Gonnon)
* 1977 : Opium by Yves Saint-Laurent (Jean-Louis Sieuzac)
* 1978 : Azzaro Pour Homme by Azzaro (Gérard Anthony, Martin Heiddenreich, Richard Wirtz)
* 1978 : Magie Noire by Lancôme (PFW)
* 1979 : Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel (Roger Pellegrino)
* 1981 : Nombre Noir by Shiseido (Serge Lutens, Jean-Yves Leroy)
* 1983 : Paris by Yves Saint-Laurent (Sophia Grosjman)
* 1984 : Coco by Chanel (Jacques Polge)
* 1985 : Poison by Christian Dior (Jean Guichard)
* 1987 : Loulou by Cacharel (Jean Guichard)
* 1990 : Trésor by Lancôme (Sophia Grosjman)
* 1992 : Angel by Thierry Mugler (Olvier Cresp and Yves de Chiris)
* 1993 : Jean-Paul Gaultier by Jean-Paul Gaultier (Jacques Cavallier)
* 1995 : CK One by Calvin Klein (Firmenich)
* 1995 : Dolce Vita by Christian Dior (Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roger)
* 1995 : Le Mâle by Jean-Paul Gaultier (Francis Kurkdjian)
* 1996 : Acqua di Gió Pour Homme by Giorgio Armani (Alberto Morillas)
* 2001 : Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel (Jacques Polge)
* 2001 : Nu by Yves Saint-Laurent (Jacques Cavallier)
nhi 0988633992
* 1714 : Eau de Cologne by Farina (Johann Maria Farina 1685-1766)
* 1889 : Jicky by Guerlain (Aimé Guerlain)
* 1917 : Chypre by François Coty (François Coty)
* 1919 : Mitsouko by Guerlain (Jacques Guerlain)
* 1919 : Tabac Blond by Caron (Ernest Daltroff)
* 1921 : N°5 by Chanel (Ernest Beaux)
* 1925 : Shalimar by Guerlain (Jacques Guerlain)
* 1927 : Arpège by Lanvin (André Fraysse)
* 1929 : Soir by Paris by Bourjois (Ernest Beaux)
* 1930 : Joy by Jean Patou (Henri Alméras)
* 1934 : Pour Un Homme by Caron (Ernest Daltroff)
* 1944 : Bandit by Robery Piguet (Germaine Cellier)
* 1945 : Femme by Rochas (Edmond Roudnitska)
* 1948 : L'Air du temps by Nina Ricci (Francis Fabron)
* 1956 : Diorissimo by Christian Dior (Edmond Roudnitska)
* 1959 : Monsieur by Givenchy
* 1959 : Cabochard by Parfums Grès (Bernard Chant)
* 1966 : Eau sauvage by Christian Dior (Edmond Roudnitska)
* 1969 : Ô by Lancôme (Robert Gonnon)
* 1977 : Opium by Yves Saint-Laurent (Jean-Louis Sieuzac)
* 1978 : Azzaro Pour Homme by Azzaro (Gérard Anthony, Martin Heiddenreich, Richard Wirtz)
* 1978 : Magie Noire by Lancôme (PFW)
* 1979 : Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel (Roger Pellegrino)
* 1981 : Nombre Noir by Shiseido (Serge Lutens, Jean-Yves Leroy)
* 1983 : Paris by Yves Saint-Laurent (Sophia Grosjman)
* 1984 : Coco by Chanel (Jacques Polge)
* 1985 : Poison by Christian Dior (Jean Guichard)
* 1987 : Loulou by Cacharel (Jean Guichard)
* 1990 : Trésor by Lancôme (Sophia Grosjman)
* 1992 : Angel by Thierry Mugler (Olvier Cresp and Yves de Chiris)
* 1993 : Jean-Paul Gaultier by Jean-Paul Gaultier (Jacques Cavallier)
* 1995 : CK One by Calvin Klein (Firmenich)
* 1995 : Dolce Vita by Christian Dior (Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roger)
* 1995 : Le Mâle by Jean-Paul Gaultier (Francis Kurkdjian)
* 1996 : Acqua di Gió Pour Homme by Giorgio Armani (Alberto Morillas)
* 2001 : Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel (Jacques Polge)
* 2001 : Nu by Yves Saint-Laurent (Jacques Cavallier)
0918198896
Alfred Sung Paradise
Thủy 0918198896
Launched in 2003, Paradise celebrates the glory of balancing state of mind and environment. Paradise is a lush, green, fruity, floral fragrance, a heavenly blend of tropical greens, tagete absolute, white peach, jasmine, gardenia, rose de mai, orchid vanille, sandalwood, and musk.
"The inspiration for Alfred Sung Paradise fragrance comes from a very special place in my heart. It is a personal interpretation of an idyllic escape, transporting one's thoughts to a peaceful and tranquil setting. It is a place that brings one complete happiness." - Alfred Sung
The first thing I want to say about this fragrance is that it's subtle. It's not one of those fragrances that immediately assults your olifactory system. This one is much, much more laid back.
The second thing I want to say about it is that it's very different, and not quite like any other fragrance with which I'm familiar. This one really does smell tropical, but not in a fruity tropical way (not like coconuts and pineapples or anything remotely that overt). The tropical sense comes from its lush, subtle, "green" qualities. The fruity notes are soft ones, not too sweet.
This fragrance really does make me think of swaying palms and warm breezes and a lush, cool jungle filled with juicy fruit and fragrant flowers. I can't say that it brings about any particular "oneness" or "complete happiness", but it is an extremely pleasant fragrance, and for me it's a very nice alternative to the overt and sometimes in-your-face (or, well, in-your-nose, I guess) florals that I tend to wear.
Incidentally, if you get this fragrance in a gift pack set (lotion, shower gel, and EDP spray), you can get a very nice deal. I love to shower with this and then go on to the lotion and then the fragrance on top of that. With a subtle fragrance like this one, the layering helps to really keep it going, and, hey, a shower in a cool jungle on a warm island can't be a bad thing, you know?
The only problem I have with this fragrance is that it doesn't seem to last long on my skin, even though I do layer the fragrance and use Eau de Parfum. I'm guessing it's an issue of my chemistry and the perfume's (perfume is such a personal thing).
Thủy 0918198896
Launched in 2003, Paradise celebrates the glory of balancing state of mind and environment. Paradise is a lush, green, fruity, floral fragrance, a heavenly blend of tropical greens, tagete absolute, white peach, jasmine, gardenia, rose de mai, orchid vanille, sandalwood, and musk.
"The inspiration for Alfred Sung Paradise fragrance comes from a very special place in my heart. It is a personal interpretation of an idyllic escape, transporting one's thoughts to a peaceful and tranquil setting. It is a place that brings one complete happiness." - Alfred Sung
The first thing I want to say about this fragrance is that it's subtle. It's not one of those fragrances that immediately assults your olifactory system. This one is much, much more laid back.
The second thing I want to say about it is that it's very different, and not quite like any other fragrance with which I'm familiar. This one really does smell tropical, but not in a fruity tropical way (not like coconuts and pineapples or anything remotely that overt). The tropical sense comes from its lush, subtle, "green" qualities. The fruity notes are soft ones, not too sweet.
This fragrance really does make me think of swaying palms and warm breezes and a lush, cool jungle filled with juicy fruit and fragrant flowers. I can't say that it brings about any particular "oneness" or "complete happiness", but it is an extremely pleasant fragrance, and for me it's a very nice alternative to the overt and sometimes in-your-face (or, well, in-your-nose, I guess) florals that I tend to wear.
Incidentally, if you get this fragrance in a gift pack set (lotion, shower gel, and EDP spray), you can get a very nice deal. I love to shower with this and then go on to the lotion and then the fragrance on top of that. With a subtle fragrance like this one, the layering helps to really keep it going, and, hey, a shower in a cool jungle on a warm island can't be a bad thing, you know?
The only problem I have with this fragrance is that it doesn't seem to last long on my skin, even though I do layer the fragrance and use Eau de Parfum. I'm guessing it's an issue of my chemistry and the perfume's (perfume is such a personal thing).
0919881955
Dior Diorissimo
Thu 0919881955 SG
Designed by Christian Dior in 1956, now a famed classic. A romantic and carefree bouquet is composed around Christian Dior’s lucky flower and the emblem of Dior couture, lily of the valley. The fragrance is further softened with notes of jasmine, lilac and sandalwood. Diorissimo is a chance to indulge yourself in the soft, delightful scent of springtime. Classically feminine!
Years ago, I worked as a support tech at an ISP. Yes, a very geeky job (don't worry, I was pretty good at it), and the entire workplace was dominated by men. Since I was always in the back in the "tech lair" as we called it, I never bothered to wear makeup or wear anything especially dressy (jeans and t-shirts was - and is - my usual uniform). I wore some jewellery because I always wear rings and frequently wear earrings, but other than that, I was always pretty "butch" at work.
One day, though, I came to work wearing perfume (probably an Estée Lauder one like White Linen), just because I felt like it. A co-worker who was also a pretty good friend and who also happened to be a reasonably funny guy sniffed the air as I entered the tech lair and said in a slightly funny accent, "Somethin' smells kinda.... FLOWERY in here!"
Thu 0919881955 SG
Designed by Christian Dior in 1956, now a famed classic. A romantic and carefree bouquet is composed around Christian Dior’s lucky flower and the emblem of Dior couture, lily of the valley. The fragrance is further softened with notes of jasmine, lilac and sandalwood. Diorissimo is a chance to indulge yourself in the soft, delightful scent of springtime. Classically feminine!
Years ago, I worked as a support tech at an ISP. Yes, a very geeky job (don't worry, I was pretty good at it), and the entire workplace was dominated by men. Since I was always in the back in the "tech lair" as we called it, I never bothered to wear makeup or wear anything especially dressy (jeans and t-shirts was - and is - my usual uniform). I wore some jewellery because I always wear rings and frequently wear earrings, but other than that, I was always pretty "butch" at work.
One day, though, I came to work wearing perfume (probably an Estée Lauder one like White Linen), just because I felt like it. A co-worker who was also a pretty good friend and who also happened to be a reasonably funny guy sniffed the air as I entered the tech lair and said in a slightly funny accent, "Somethin' smells kinda.... FLOWERY in here!"
0982056396
You think perfume is expensive?
0982056396
"HP has taken umbrage with a Gartner analyst who pointed out that at $2,145 per liter, printer ink is more expensive per drop than Chanel No.5 or a good bottle of whiskey. HP hit back with a prepared email statement, saying the premium pricing just reflects their investment in R&D." This isn't new, of course. We've had a few stories in the past about how ink costs more than vintage champagne and how filling a swimming pool with ink would cost nearly $6 billion.
0982056396
"HP has taken umbrage with a Gartner analyst who pointed out that at $2,145 per liter, printer ink is more expensive per drop than Chanel No.5 or a good bottle of whiskey. HP hit back with a prepared email statement, saying the premium pricing just reflects their investment in R&D." This isn't new, of course. We've had a few stories in the past about how ink costs more than vintage champagne and how filling a swimming pool with ink would cost nearly $6 billion.
0919 700 510
Caron Pour Un Homme
Huyền 0919 700 510
Having previously reviewed this one, and this being amongst my very favourite fragrances (on my husband it is absolutely fantastic), I'm happy to report I've just sold a bottle of the lovely stuff to a nice lady in New South Wales (repeat customer, too!).
So, since this site is for business as well as personal use....
Introduced in 1934, Caron Pour Un Homme (also seen as "Caron Pour Homme") is a fresh, sensual scent with strong notes of lavender and bergamot, accented with lemon, rosemary, sage, and a delightful vanilla and cedarwood base for a delicious concoction that is a masculine fragrance classic. Delightful!
Note: This fine fragrance can be surprisingly difficult to find in Australia unless you're willing to pay full retail prices, and even then it can be tricky to get, so here's your chance to get this great fragrance at a great price!
Brand: Pour Homme by Caron
Size: 100ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$68
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Huyền 0919 700 510
Having previously reviewed this one, and this being amongst my very favourite fragrances (on my husband it is absolutely fantastic), I'm happy to report I've just sold a bottle of the lovely stuff to a nice lady in New South Wales (repeat customer, too!).
So, since this site is for business as well as personal use....
Introduced in 1934, Caron Pour Un Homme (also seen as "Caron Pour Homme") is a fresh, sensual scent with strong notes of lavender and bergamot, accented with lemon, rosemary, sage, and a delightful vanilla and cedarwood base for a delicious concoction that is a masculine fragrance classic. Delightful!
Note: This fine fragrance can be surprisingly difficult to find in Australia unless you're willing to pay full retail prices, and even then it can be tricky to get, so here's your chance to get this great fragrance at a great price!
Brand: Pour Homme by Caron
Size: 100ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$68
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
0983112209
Chanel No. 5
Thu 0983112209
Chanel No. 5 is one of the best known church fumigation systems in the world. Invented by Pope Edgar during the Byzantine period in 100 B.C., the scent has been suffocating people ever since. In the spring of 1901 the scent was repackaged and marketed by a Parisian hooker, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Since then it has been adopted by senior citizens worldwide and in particular, seniors from Florida, who are extremely fond of the noxious fumes and regularly dip their housecoats and muumuus in it in lieu of bathing and doing laundry.
Background Info
No one really knows how the name Chanel No. 5 came about, but one thing most people readily agree upon is that the label should read No Chanel #5, PLEASE. Chanel No. 5 was later replaced by Discovery Chanel
Thu 0983112209
Chanel No. 5 is one of the best known church fumigation systems in the world. Invented by Pope Edgar during the Byzantine period in 100 B.C., the scent has been suffocating people ever since. In the spring of 1901 the scent was repackaged and marketed by a Parisian hooker, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Since then it has been adopted by senior citizens worldwide and in particular, seniors from Florida, who are extremely fond of the noxious fumes and regularly dip their housecoats and muumuus in it in lieu of bathing and doing laundry.
Background Info
No one really knows how the name Chanel No. 5 came about, but one thing most people readily agree upon is that the label should read No Chanel #5, PLEASE. Chanel No. 5 was later replaced by Discovery Chanel
0906994679
Guerlain Mahora
Diẹu. SG 0906994679
Fri, 13 Oct 06
This is a somewhat strange review, because this lovely fragrance has been discontinued. What a shame! It was released in 2000, and it's lush and amazing. I have a good-sized bottle of it, so it should last me a while, but still... what a shame that it's been discontinued.
This is a very lush, earthy, oriental type fragrance. It's very exotic, with green and spicy top notes, a heart of tuberose, frangipani blossoms, neroli, ylang-ylang, and jasmine, and a classic oriental base of vetiver, vanilla, and sandalwood. I also smell something in there that reminds me very distinctly of coconut, but that might be my imagination.
I can understand why it wasn't a hit. It's "old fashioned". It smells like the exotic boudoir of a silent film star with kohl-rimmed eyes. I fell in love with it right away (I bought myself a mini of the fragrance to try it and was instantly hooked, which is why I bought the bigger bottle I already mentioned).
The fragrance was released in a time when the trend was (and still is, to some extent) "light, floral, and fruity" and everything was pink. This fragrance is heavy, golden, mysterious, maybe a little dark. It's definitely not light and it's certainly not pink (pink being a state of mind as well as a colour).
I have nothing against the many "pink" fragrances, honestly. Even as I write this, there's a bottle of Lancôme Miracle on my desk, as well as a mini bottle of Ralph Lauren Romance, two very light, very pink fragrances. Pink is okay with me, in small doses.
But, oh, the sexy, heavy, lush scent of Mahora... Let's just say that if you're in the mood for pink, Mahora is definitely NOT what you want, but if you want exotic and sexy and timeless, Mahora is hard to beat.
And let's look at the bright side. Someday, most of those pink fragrances will be out of production and discontinued, and those that aren't will be regarded as "old lady" fragrances.
Me, I'm in my forties and quite the eccentric, so I can and do wear what I please. And today, what I please is Mahora (though a few days ago I was wearing Miracle, and not only was I wearing the fragrance, I was wearing the scented body cream all over, as well; I was very, very pink and perky smelling, thankyou).
I've also heard a couple of rumours that Guerlain might be releasing Mahora again at some point, but that remains to be seen. In the meantime, I'll cherish the supply of it I do have, which should last a long time, as I wear it infrequently (as gorgeous as it is, I'm not always in the mood to smell like the boudoir of a sexy silent film star with kohl-rimmed eyes), and hope that someday, this lovely fragrance will be re-evaluated by people who can appreciate it.
Diẹu. SG 0906994679
Fri, 13 Oct 06
This is a somewhat strange review, because this lovely fragrance has been discontinued. What a shame! It was released in 2000, and it's lush and amazing. I have a good-sized bottle of it, so it should last me a while, but still... what a shame that it's been discontinued.
This is a very lush, earthy, oriental type fragrance. It's very exotic, with green and spicy top notes, a heart of tuberose, frangipani blossoms, neroli, ylang-ylang, and jasmine, and a classic oriental base of vetiver, vanilla, and sandalwood. I also smell something in there that reminds me very distinctly of coconut, but that might be my imagination.
I can understand why it wasn't a hit. It's "old fashioned". It smells like the exotic boudoir of a silent film star with kohl-rimmed eyes. I fell in love with it right away (I bought myself a mini of the fragrance to try it and was instantly hooked, which is why I bought the bigger bottle I already mentioned).
The fragrance was released in a time when the trend was (and still is, to some extent) "light, floral, and fruity" and everything was pink. This fragrance is heavy, golden, mysterious, maybe a little dark. It's definitely not light and it's certainly not pink (pink being a state of mind as well as a colour).
I have nothing against the many "pink" fragrances, honestly. Even as I write this, there's a bottle of Lancôme Miracle on my desk, as well as a mini bottle of Ralph Lauren Romance, two very light, very pink fragrances. Pink is okay with me, in small doses.
But, oh, the sexy, heavy, lush scent of Mahora... Let's just say that if you're in the mood for pink, Mahora is definitely NOT what you want, but if you want exotic and sexy and timeless, Mahora is hard to beat.
And let's look at the bright side. Someday, most of those pink fragrances will be out of production and discontinued, and those that aren't will be regarded as "old lady" fragrances.
Me, I'm in my forties and quite the eccentric, so I can and do wear what I please. And today, what I please is Mahora (though a few days ago I was wearing Miracle, and not only was I wearing the fragrance, I was wearing the scented body cream all over, as well; I was very, very pink and perky smelling, thankyou).
I've also heard a couple of rumours that Guerlain might be releasing Mahora again at some point, but that remains to be seen. In the meantime, I'll cherish the supply of it I do have, which should last a long time, as I wear it infrequently (as gorgeous as it is, I'm not always in the mood to smell like the boudoir of a sexy silent film star with kohl-rimmed eyes), and hope that someday, this lovely fragrance will be re-evaluated by people who can appreciate it.
Thief Had Nose for Fine Perfume
Thief Had Nose for Fine Perfume
Vy, Q1, 0909933157
Some thieves prefer jewels.
Others like cash.
But a thief in Atlanta’s Buckhead neighborhood -- who police believe is the man they just arrested -- has been going for Davidoff, Kenneth Cole, Aqua Di Gio by Armani, Issey Miyake.
Expensive perfumes.
Since March of 2005, police say, the thief has had a nose for the fine perfumes at the ULTA store in Buckhead -- raiding the store repeatedly, and filling his sack with hundreds or thousands of dollars worth of perfume each time.
Then he'd re-sell each bottle on the street and come back to the same store for more. Again and again.
"He actually would stand outside the door and watch [through the store’s windows] for when no one was in sight,” the store’s General Manager, Becky Sullivan, told 11Alive News. “And he would come into the building and take a bag out of his pocket and load it up with fragrances."
He'd just ignore the customers, Sullivan said, and ignore employees who would be ordering him to stop.
"Once he'd come in he would advise them, 'You all know what time it is,' and continue stealing and leaving out of the store," said Atlanta Police Detective Brian Anderson.
And Anderson said the thief showed no concern for the presence of store surveillance cameras that recorded his every move.
It got to the point where employees were terrified of the man. Never knowing when he'd strike again. And he was fast.
“In a minute or two minutes,” Sullivan said, he would select what he wanted and run away. “A very intimidating person, you know, in a store full of women.”
Unstoppable. And uncatchable.
Until, police say, right after he hit the store this past Saturday afternoon.
"Detective Anderson came in the door with the guy's jacket, and he said, 'I caught him, I caught him.' And I was just, like, very emotional," Sullivan said in describing the relief she felt.
"In essence, he had a 'catch me' attitude," Anderson said.
Detective Anderson and Detective Jacquelyn Gwinn-Villaroel did catch their suspect after working for months on the case.
Anderson spotted the man running out of the store on Saturday, and ran after him, finally catching him at the nearby Buckhead MARTA rail station.
The suspect is 34-year-old Jermaine Higgins. Higgins is a convicted shoplifter and forger from Metro Atlanta who was on probation after serving two years and seven months in a state prison. And police say Higgins has a record of 34 previous arrests for kidnapping, obstruction, shoplifting, forgery and trespassing.
“We just needed to bring this man to justice,” said Detective Gwinn-Villaroel.
The detectives say when they arrested Higgins, he had a sack full of perfumes he’d just stolen from the store, worth more than $2,100. And the detectives say Higgins had carefully picked out what he wanted during the short time he was in the store, as if he were working from a shopping list -- for example, one bottle of Armani Mania worth $49, four bottles of Kenneth Cole worth a total of $196, ten bottles of Aqua DiGio, worth a total of $650, and one bottle of Issey Miyake worth $48, plus the other bottles of perfume police say were in Higgins’ sack.
“This guy was hitting [the store] pretty much twice a week, at least twice a week,” Anderson said. “The items that he was stealing were small and high value....I believe he was selling them at clubs, after-hours establishments, in the neighborhood, for a fraction of what the actual store price, the retail price, is on them.”
“He’ll be in jail for a while,” said Repeat Offender Officer Wes Tippens.
No one's breathing easier now than Becky Sullivan and her staff.
"I would just like to thank the detectives, Anderson and Gwinn-Villaroel, for all their help, and my whole staff is just truly delighted."
Police are charging Higgins, initially, with nine felony counts of Theft by Taking, involving at least $10,000 worth of merchandise. They say they expect to file additional charges against him as their investigation continues.
Higgins is being held in the Fulton County Jail. No bond hearing has been scheduled, yet, on the felony charges.
They believe Higgins targeted that particular store because he was able to run to the nearby Buckhead MARTA rail station to get away.
Vy, Q1, 0909933157
Some thieves prefer jewels.
Others like cash.
But a thief in Atlanta’s Buckhead neighborhood -- who police believe is the man they just arrested -- has been going for Davidoff, Kenneth Cole, Aqua Di Gio by Armani, Issey Miyake.
Expensive perfumes.
Since March of 2005, police say, the thief has had a nose for the fine perfumes at the ULTA store in Buckhead -- raiding the store repeatedly, and filling his sack with hundreds or thousands of dollars worth of perfume each time.
Then he'd re-sell each bottle on the street and come back to the same store for more. Again and again.
"He actually would stand outside the door and watch [through the store’s windows] for when no one was in sight,” the store’s General Manager, Becky Sullivan, told 11Alive News. “And he would come into the building and take a bag out of his pocket and load it up with fragrances."
He'd just ignore the customers, Sullivan said, and ignore employees who would be ordering him to stop.
"Once he'd come in he would advise them, 'You all know what time it is,' and continue stealing and leaving out of the store," said Atlanta Police Detective Brian Anderson.
And Anderson said the thief showed no concern for the presence of store surveillance cameras that recorded his every move.
It got to the point where employees were terrified of the man. Never knowing when he'd strike again. And he was fast.
“In a minute or two minutes,” Sullivan said, he would select what he wanted and run away. “A very intimidating person, you know, in a store full of women.”
Unstoppable. And uncatchable.
Until, police say, right after he hit the store this past Saturday afternoon.
"Detective Anderson came in the door with the guy's jacket, and he said, 'I caught him, I caught him.' And I was just, like, very emotional," Sullivan said in describing the relief she felt.
"In essence, he had a 'catch me' attitude," Anderson said.
Detective Anderson and Detective Jacquelyn Gwinn-Villaroel did catch their suspect after working for months on the case.
Anderson spotted the man running out of the store on Saturday, and ran after him, finally catching him at the nearby Buckhead MARTA rail station.
The suspect is 34-year-old Jermaine Higgins. Higgins is a convicted shoplifter and forger from Metro Atlanta who was on probation after serving two years and seven months in a state prison. And police say Higgins has a record of 34 previous arrests for kidnapping, obstruction, shoplifting, forgery and trespassing.
“We just needed to bring this man to justice,” said Detective Gwinn-Villaroel.
The detectives say when they arrested Higgins, he had a sack full of perfumes he’d just stolen from the store, worth more than $2,100. And the detectives say Higgins had carefully picked out what he wanted during the short time he was in the store, as if he were working from a shopping list -- for example, one bottle of Armani Mania worth $49, four bottles of Kenneth Cole worth a total of $196, ten bottles of Aqua DiGio, worth a total of $650, and one bottle of Issey Miyake worth $48, plus the other bottles of perfume police say were in Higgins’ sack.
“This guy was hitting [the store] pretty much twice a week, at least twice a week,” Anderson said. “The items that he was stealing were small and high value....I believe he was selling them at clubs, after-hours establishments, in the neighborhood, for a fraction of what the actual store price, the retail price, is on them.”
“He’ll be in jail for a while,” said Repeat Offender Officer Wes Tippens.
No one's breathing easier now than Becky Sullivan and her staff.
"I would just like to thank the detectives, Anderson and Gwinn-Villaroel, for all their help, and my whole staff is just truly delighted."
Police are charging Higgins, initially, with nine felony counts of Theft by Taking, involving at least $10,000 worth of merchandise. They say they expect to file additional charges against him as their investigation continues.
Higgins is being held in the Fulton County Jail. No bond hearing has been scheduled, yet, on the felony charges.
They believe Higgins targeted that particular store because he was able to run to the nearby Buckhead MARTA rail station to get away.
0908103498
Display It, Don't Spray It
Vy, Q3, 0908103498
Quite accidently and quite happily, I stumbled on this fascinating essay on Japanese culture and the way they regard fragrances and perfumes. Really interesting read. (Especially if you're a perfume and sociology nerd like I am.)
Fragrance Concentration
Most people know that fragrances come in varying degree of strength, but just what is the difference between Eau de Parfum, Eau de Cologne, After Shave, Eau de Toilette, and other strengths and descriptions?
These terms all refer to the strength of the fragrance, or more specifically, to how much high grade alcohol and/or water has been added to the fragrance oils. Parfum (generally the most concentrated form you can buy) has 15-25% perfume oil dissolved in alcohol. Any mixture with a lower proportion of oil to alcohol is an eau (meaning water).
In order of strength:
Perfume oil or Pure Perfume lasts 6+ hours (15%-30% perfume oil in an oil rather than alcohol base) - Rare. Few fragrances are commercially available in this concentration, and those that are tend to be extremely costly.
Parfum or Perfume lasts up to 4 to 6 hours (15% - 25% -- also sometimes referred to as extract or extrait) - Uncommon. Not many fragrances are commecially available in this concentration, and those that are available are quite costly.
Soie de Parfum lasts 3 to 6 hours (15% - 18% perfume oil) - Not common in commercial release, as above.
Eau de parfum lasts 3 to 5 hours (8% - 15% perfume oil) - Fairly common. Price depends on the brand, the fragrance, etc., but will be more expensive than less concentrated fragrances, naturally. Currently very popular.
Eau de Toilette lasts 3 to 4 hours (4% - 10% perfume oil) - Common. Generally the strongest concentration available in men's fragrance.
Eau de Cologne lasts up to 3 hours (2% - 5% perfume oil) - Common. Was once a very popular concentration, but not as much now, at least in women's fragrances. Still fairly popular in fragrances for men.
After Shave lasts 2 to 3 hours (3% or less perfume oil) - Common. Also note that after shave often has aloe or other balms in it to sooth the skin after a shave, and the alcohol can help close pores.
Eau Fraiche lasts 1 hour or less (3% or less perfume oil) - Not very common. Sometimes referred to as "perfumed mist" or "splash". Often alcohol free.
These terms are commonly seen abbreviated, such as EDP for Eau de Parfum, EDT for Eau de Toilette, etc.
Occasionally we also see the term, Parfum de Toilette, which most companies use to describe a concentration that is either the same as Eau de Parfum, or between Eau de Parfum and Parfum. Other companies use the term to describe an Eau De Toilette concentration. (Yes, it can be muddled; we generally only deal in EDP, EDT, EDC, After Shave, and EF, to avoid our own confusion and that of our customers!)
Some fragrance houses also produce deodorant body sprays (very light and mostly alcohol; these fragrances last only a couple of hours or less, but can be nicely refreshing, especially when chilled), perfumed creams and lotions, perfumed body powder (usually a talcum base), and so forth. These can be useful for "layering" fragrance in order to make it last longer and create a stronger impression (see below).
Making Fragrance Last on Your Skin
Generally speaking, perfumes evaporate more rapidly from dry skin, so the best way to make fragrance last longer is to use a relatively heavy body lotion or cream prior to applying the perfume. Some people like to buy the "matching" cream for their fragrance, but you can also use an unscented cream or try almond oil or jojoba oil.
Don't spray fragrance in your hair. It's sometimes believed that this will make the fragrance last longer, but in fact the oils in your scalp can change the fragrance in a way you won't like, and the alcohol in the fragrance can dry your hair.
Don't spray fragrance directly on your clothes. It sounds like a good idea and will certainly make the fragrance last, but as it's designed to be on skin, not fabric, it may quickly turn into a smell you don't want around you as it reacts with the fabric. Additionally, some fabrics can be damaged or stained by direct exposure to perfumes, and it can prove extremely difficult to get the fragrance out of the fabric.
Don't spray fragrance into the air and then walk into it. This disperses most of the fragrance into the air (which is a waste of the fragrance), and you may end up with it on your face (a big no-no if you're at all prone to breakouts because of the high oil content in the perfume), your clothes, in your hair, etc., and it's not very effective as far as making the fragrance last.
Do dab or spray fragrance on areas of your body where the heat will cause the fragrance to slowly release.
The "pulse points", i.e., anywhere you can easily feel your pulse:
Inside of wrists
Inside of elbows
Base of the throat
Temples
Below and slightly behind the ears
Behind the knees (generally only good if you're wearing shorts or a skirt, but can be effective with very lightweight trousers)
Ankles (again, usually only effective if your ankles are uncovered, see above)
Breast cleavage or the middle of the chest, above the heart
There are a few other strong pulse points (such as the top of the inner thigh in the groin), but you'll have to decide for yourself if you want to perfume them...
Another trick that works very well is to take a cotton ball and spray it with fragrance and then tuck it into your cleavage. This works surprisingly well and can keep the fragrance noticibly present for a very long time (just be careful with expensive bras that might become stained; this works best for women who have a fair bit of cleavage into which to tuck things.)
Caring for Fragrances, Shelf Life, Etc.
Some industry experts maintain that you should replace perfume after a year, some say two years, but perfumes can and should last much longer with proper care. Most perfumes will keep for several years, some will keep for many more years than that. (You can tell when a perfume has gone off by several means: when a perfume turns it tends to become more oily, the colour will often change and become darker, the fragrance changes, sometimes subtly and sometimes very noticibly. Note that using fragrance that has turned probably won't harm you, but it won't smell very good and may have unexpected results on your skin, due to the chemical changes in the solution.)
To store perfume so it will last, keep it away from heat and light. A dark closet, a seldom-opened deep dresser drawer, or a covered box will work well. It may look pretty to have perfume bottles all sitting out attractively on your dresser or a windowsill, but exposure to light is a sure way to send your fine fragrances round the twist, so don't give in to the tempation (if you really want pretty bottles for display purposes, fill empty perfume containers with colored water).
Don't keep fine fragrances in the bathroom, as the heat and humidity will hasten the breakdown of the chemicals.
Don't store perfumes in the fridge (a common myth), as the humidity and temperature can cause unhappy changes in the chemistry (if you like the feel of chilled fragrance, use cologne or a body spray).
Also avoid, as much as possible, direct exposure to air. Splash or pour bottles, which expose the fragrance to air every time they are opened, cause problems, so consider decanting perfume into a smaller atomizer for regular use (also convienient for carrying along with you when you go out).
If you apply perfume directly from a bottle stopper, wipe the stopper with a clean, lint free cloth before replacing it in the bottle, to remove any body oils that may contaminate the perfume (and cause it to degrade more quickly).
Treat good perfume with a little bit of care, and it should keep you smelling fabulous for a very long time!
Top, Middle, and Base Notes
Top notes refers to the first scent impression of a fragrance once it has been applied to the skin. They are usually lighter, more volatile aromas that evaporate quickly. Their scent usually lingers for 5 to 30 minutes.
Middle notes are sometimes referred to as “heart notes”, and refer to the body of the blend. They may be noticible from the start, but will usually take 10-30 minutes to fully develop on the skin. These are the notes that classify the fragrance family (floral, oriental, chypre, etc, see below).
Base Notes are the aromas in the blend with the greatest molecular weight. They last the longest, and are also important as fixatives (fixitives help slow down the evaporation rates of the lighter notes and bind the ingredients, giving the fragrance holding power). Common base notes include oakmoss, patchouli, woods, musk, tonka bean, ambergris, and vanilla.
A fragrance which does not have traditional top, middle and base notes is usually described as "linear". Chanel Allure is a good example of a linear fragrance, as is Estée Lauder White Linen. In a linear fragrance you experience all of the notes more or less at the same time. A linear fragrance doesn't "develop" the way a traditional pyramid fragrance does, but smells the same throughout and instead of having new or different notes appear, it simply fades away slowly as you wear it.
Fragrance Familes
Note that some people (even in the industry) differ on that nature of fragrance families. The concept is a very old one, and dates back to a time when fragrances were simpler and there were far fewer of them. This is a general guideline only; other lists of fragrance families may differ (such as the Olifactive Families list on Wikipedia). These days, there's a lot of cross over between the traditional families, and many fragrances can be very difficult to classify.
Chypre (pronounced sheep-er)
A Chypre fragrance has woody, mossy and floral notes in some combination. This family will also often contain oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, bergamot, and vetiver. The name comes from the French Chypre, which is the French name for the island of Cyprus, from whence came many of the notes that make up this fragrance. Coty produced a women's fragrance in 1917 which was called "Chypre", and it's from that fragrance that the family actually takes its name.
Examples of the Chypre family include:
Masculine: Givenchy Gentleman, Fendi Uomo, Vetiver by Guerlain, Aramis, Van Cleef and Arpels, Quorum by Puig, Antaeus by Chanel, 212 Men by Carolina Herrera
Feminine: Cuir de Russe by Chanel, Mitsouko by Guerlain, Chypre de Coty
Floral
The majority of fragrances for women are floral. Some are a bouquet of different flowers, with each flower complementing the others, while some use one main flower and complement it with other notes and accords. Others are very simple and can just be the scent of a flower alone (these are called single-note scents). In the past, floral scent was considered as very masculine. Nowadays, especially in the West, these are slightly less popular as maculine fragrance.
Examples of the Floral family include:
Masculine: Agua Lavanda by Puig, Insensé by Givenchy
Feminine: Chanel No 19, Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel, L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci, Charlie by Revlon
Fougère (pronounced foo-jer)
Fougere fragrances are one of the most popular in men's fragrances, and they will often contain lavender and oakmoss. The term 'Fougere' is French for 'fern', a name which is derived from a now discontinued fragrance by the venerable house of Houbigant called Fougere Royale (Royal Fern) which was the first fougere fragrance.
Examples of the Fougère family include:
Masculine: Polo Sport by Ralph Lauren, Platinum Egoiste by Chanel, Cool Water by Davidoff, Jazz by YSL, Paco Rabanne pour Homme.
Marine
The Marine fragrance family is relatively new and is used to describe scents that evoke a feeling of the sea air. These fragrances use an ingredient called calone to give the marine scent.
Examples of the Marine family include:
Masculine: Kenzo Pour Homme, L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake, New West for Him by Aramis
Feminine: Escape by Calvin Klein, Inis by Fragrances of Ireland, Aquawoman by Rochas.
Oriental
Oriental fragrances are common in both men's and women's fragrances. They are often warm, spicy and sweet, and contain ingredients such as vanilla and musk. Sandalwood and patchouli are also very common in these fragrances.
Examples of the Oriental family include:
Masculine: Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein, Joop! Homme by Joop!, Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier, Equipage by Hermes, Egoiste by Chanel
Feminine: Shalimar by Guerlain, Jean Paul Gaultier "Classique", Angel by Thierry Mugler, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent
Common Fragrance Ingredients
Aldehydes
Organic chemical compounds derived from natural or synthetic ingredients. There are many, many kinds of aldehydes, and more are being created. Aldehydes are used to alter, enhance, brighten, or soften perfume formulations. Chanel perfumer Ernest Beaux is credited with being the first to use aldehydes to give No. 5 a rich and brilliant sheen it would otherwise lack.
Amber
Processed from the fossil resin of the fir tree, and sometimes from the leaves of the cistus (rock rose) plant (see also cistus, below). Amber gives perfumes a warm, slightly smoky, burnished leather fragrance and is usually used as a base ingredient to add a mellow grow, as well as being an excellent fixitive to bind the other ingredients together. Extensively synthesised in many subtle variations of the basic amber scent.
Ambergris
A fatty/oily substance regurgitated from the stomach of the sperm whale. This substance has a disgusting natural smell, but when processed it takes on a warm, sensual fragrance which is used with great discretion in the base notes of very exclusive perfumes. Because it is now far too costly to collect commercially in its natural state, it is usually replicated synthetically with almost identical effect.
Balsam
A rich, gummy resin which is harvested from specific trees, shrubs, and plants usually found in northern Africa and Southeast Asia. Balsam is sweetly aromatic with a honey-like sensuality. It is used in the base notes of perfumes, usually of the Oriental family.
Benzoin (BEN-zjwahn)
A sweet, cocoa-like balsamic resin derived from processing the resin of the tropical Southeast Asian stryax tree (see also styrax, below). It is used in the base notes of perfumes (mostly Orientals) to give a deep, rich, chocolatey note, and it is an excellent fixitive.
Bergamot
An essential oil made from the peel of the small, sour, inedible bergamot orange. It is powerful, highly distinctive, and gives its bright, zesty, citrus scent to about one-third of all perfumes, usually in the top notes. (Essence of bergamot is also the distinctive difference in Earl Grey tea, just as a side note.)
Bulgarian rose
A special variety of rose, grown in huge commercial quantities in Bulgaria's "Valley of Roses". This flower yields the' finest rose absolu (rose essence), and is incredibly rich and heady. Because of its richness, potency, and desirability, it is extremely expensive and is used only the most luxurious of perfumes.
Cassia (kass-EES)
A richly scented and powerfully potent aromatic oil distilled from black-currant buds to impart a dark, deep, pungent fruity fragrance.
Cistus (also Labdanum)
Cistus is a fragrant oil distilled from the gum of leaves and twigs of the shrub known as the rock rose (also known as the cistus; see also amber, above), which is grown profusely around the Mediterranean. It has a warm, leathery amber scent and is also an efficient fixitive.
Civet
One of the most powerful fixitives still used in perfume. This ingredient was originally obtained from the genital glands of the Abyssinian civet cat. In its raw state the smell is absolutely horrible, but when processed and used in minute quantities, it creates a sensual, seductive fragrance note. Now obtained synthetically (as the animal is endangered).
Courmarin
Found naturally in tonka beans (see below), clover, and lavender, but today it is mainly synthestised for greater control in the base notes of perfume. Courmarin gives perfumes a rich almond/marzipan and slightly sweet-green note, similar to freshly mown hay.
Fixitives
The very strong ingredients in the base of the perfume's construction that bind all the other ingredients in the formula. Fixitives allow the perfume to fade gradually while remaining pleasant and fresh. They are usually gums, resins, and balsams.
Galbanum
A rare, extremely expensive gum resin derived from the sap of Asian ferula trees, found mostly in Iran. Used to give an intensely green, leafy, fresh note to perfumes.
Guaiac wood
An aromatic resin and oil derived from the heartwood of the South American palsanto tree. It is used as both a fixative and to impart an unusual floral/wood note reminiscent of rose, violet, and white tea.
Heliotrope
Sometimes called the "Cherry Pie Plant", heliotrope is a flowering shrub which bears clusters of intensely perfumed purple blossoms, from which is distilled an oil with a sweet vanilla/cherry fragrance.
Heliotropin
A chemical aldehyde which is extracted from sassafras. It has a floral/almond scent, similar to heliotrope.
Iris (also "Florentine Iris" also Orris)
An aromatic oil or butter somewhat reminiscent of violets, derived from the specially dried roots of the iris (a process which originated in the city of Florence and which is still carried out there). Some iris oils may have a woody smell with a fainter hint of violets, depending on the process used. This is one of the most expensive ingredients used in perfumes, and is commonly also known as orris.
Leather
Derived from certain birch and fir trees, or, more rarely, from the distilled essence of treated hides. Imparts a strong, animalistic, warm, smoky scent that gives a burnished note to many perfumes, particularly Orientals. Today, it is usually chemically synthesised for greater control of the fragrance.
Mimosa
Derived from the bark, wood, leaves, and fragrant blossoms of the mimosa tree (known sometimes as "wattle", particularly in Australia). This ingredient gives a sweet, fresh, warm, but light effect.
Muguet (MEW-gay)
French for lily of the valley, this scent is sweet, bright, and quite penetrating. Due to the difficulty of capturing the natural essence, it has for many years been synthetically but very convincingly manufactured.
Musk
An extremely strong but pleasantly sensual ingredient traditionally obtained from the musk glands of the Himalayan musk deer. Today, it almost exclusively synthetically manufactured and available in a considerably array of varieties and strengths (such as white musk, pink musk, amber musk, etc.). Musk imparts an instantly recognisable, warm, sensual scent, and is a strong fixative which is used in the base of a very wide variety of perfumes. Most perfumes use it sparingly, as it can be quite strong, and even "musk" perfumes are actually blends.
Myrrh
A highly arromatic gum resin derived from the shrubby tree known as the Commiphora myrrha, native to north Africa, although there is also a type of myrrh known as East Indian myrrh (derived from a similar shrub from a different region). This substance has been highly prized since ancient times and used in ointments, perfumes, incense, and other aromatic concoctions. In modern perfumes, mostly Orientals, it is used to impart an exotic, incense-like note.
Neroli
An intensely perfumed oil obtained from the fragrant, unopened buds of the Seville bitter orange tree, used as a bright, citrus top note in hundreds of perfumes. The opened buds of the same tree yield an orange flower absolute (essential oil).
Oakmoss
A smooth, woody ingredient derived from a particular lichen which grows mainly on oak trees in southern-central Europe. Commonly used in the base notes, it gives a dark green, mossy-damp, forest-floor scent to a perfume. It is an excellent fixitive.
Olibarnum (also Frankincense)
A highly aromatic resin derived from the boswellia tree, native to northern Africa. It adds a heady, spicy, and slightly smoky note, and is used in the base as it is also an excellent fixitive.
Opoponax
A gum resin with a sweet licorice/green scent, similar to myrrh. It is also an excellent fixative.
Orris, Orris Root
See Iris, Florentine Iris, above.
Patchouli
A natural ingredient derived from the leaves of the Southeast Asian patchouli plant. It provides an earthy-sweet note which, used discreetly, gives a huge number of fine perfumes a sensual note.
Petitgrain (PETTY-grahn)
A bittersweet citrus oil derived from the roots (and some sources include the leaves and bark) of the Seville orange tree (see neroli, above). It adds a light, sparkling, citrus scent to the top notes of perfume.
Rose de Mai (May Rose)
A powerful, precious essence distilled from the rosa centifolia, grown in southern France (especially in Grasse), and also in northern Africa. The scent is a piercing, memorable pure rose fragrance, and it is used in countless perfumes.
Rosewood
A precious oil obtained from the Brazilian rosewood tree (known in Australia as the jacaranda), and nothing at all to do with roses. This oil has a warm, rich, mildly resinous scent and is used to impart a stronger woody note than can be obtained from sandalwood.
Sandalwood
An extremely common and highly popular ingredient, very few fine perfumes are without this oil, which is distilled from the timber and roots of the sandalwood tree.
Styrax
From the bark of the Asian styrax tree is derived this oddly sweet aromatic oil, reminiscent of jonquils (the styrax tree also is the source of benzoin, see above). Styrax has an oddly sweet scent reminsicent of jonquils, and as it is an efficient fixitive, it is usually used in the base notes (primiarily in Orientals).
Tiaré (tee-AR-ray)
A relative of the gardenia, although with smaller flowers, native to Tahiti and French Polynesia. A gardenia fragrance can be distilled from the blossoms much more easily than from the classic gardenia (which is notoriously difficult to distil and is usually synthesised).
Tonka Bean
A powerfully fragrant oil extracted from the pods and seeds of the South American tonka tree. The oil has a unique sugar caramel/almond marzipan scent with a somewhat earthy accord. Used primarily in the base notes of Oriental perfumes.
Tuberose
A member of the lily family, and not a rose at all, famous for its fantastically powerful, sweet, heady fragrance. Used in hundreds of finely balanced floral bouquet perfumes.
Vanilla
Vanilla essence or absolute is extracted from the seeds and beans of the vanilla orchid. In perfume, vanilla both a warm, sensual, softly sweet fragrance and a fixitive, and is found in the base notes of hundreds of perfumes, many of them Orientals.
Vanillin
Vanillin is an excellent synthetic derived from the vanilla pod. It is somewhat sweeter and lacks the complexity and depth of the natural essence, but, like vanilla, is commonly used in the base of hundreds of different perfumes.
Vetiver (French: vetyver)
An essential oil extracted from the fragrant khuskhus grass, a native of southern India, Sri Lanka, Haiti, and the Caribbean. The fragrance of the oil is green/earthy, and is used in the middle and base notes of many fragrances, particularly of the fresh green variety.
Violet/Violet leaf
The scent of violet is almost impossible to extract from the blossom, itself, so the violet fragrance is usually synthetically reproduced or suggested by the use of Orris (Florentine Iris - see above). Natural violet leaves have a peppery, green, crispy sort of fragrance with a hint of the blossom's fragrance, and add natural cool freshness to perfumes.
Ylang-Ylang (ee-LANG ee-LANG)
"Flower of Flowers" in the Philippine language of Tagalog. This fragrant oil is extracted from the long, highly scented flowers of the Cananga odorata tree which grows across the Philippines, Southeast Asia, and in the Comoros Islands in the Indian Ocean. The scent is somewhat exotic, rich, heady, sweet, and slightly musky. It is a principla ingredient in a great number of Floral perfumes as well as Orientals.
Testers, Minis, and Vials
Fragrance houses produce and sell miniature fragrances and vials as a means of promoting new fragrances, or to generate interest in older ones. Since the early 1990s, the sale of miniature fragrances has blossomed into a multi-million dollar business world wide, partly because of their appeal as collectibles.
Fragrance companies are well aware of distributors and retailers selling miniature perfumes, but in some cases the traditional "sample" or "not for resale" labelling is still printed on the box or sometimes on the bottle, even though they're sold in volume to distributors to resell. (We guess that old habits sometimes die hard!)
These items ARE legal to sell (and a good many retail and wholesale sellers in Australia and around the world do, indeed, sell them!).
A tester is a fragrance house's own testing perfume, such as you would try at a department store. They are marketed for the purpose of allowing a retail outlet the ability to purchase a less expensive packaging of the full fragrance so that customers can try the fragrance. The fragrance and concentration is identical to the full retail package (else there wouldn't be much point in letting customers test it!).
Since packaging isn't an issue with testers, most are either unboxed or in a plain cardboard manufacturer's box and some come without caps. As you're not paying for unnecessary packaging, testers are offered at a considerable discount. Same fragrance, slightly different package, terrific bargain.
Vy, Q3, 0908103498
Quite accidently and quite happily, I stumbled on this fascinating essay on Japanese culture and the way they regard fragrances and perfumes. Really interesting read. (Especially if you're a perfume and sociology nerd like I am.)
Fragrance Concentration
Most people know that fragrances come in varying degree of strength, but just what is the difference between Eau de Parfum, Eau de Cologne, After Shave, Eau de Toilette, and other strengths and descriptions?
These terms all refer to the strength of the fragrance, or more specifically, to how much high grade alcohol and/or water has been added to the fragrance oils. Parfum (generally the most concentrated form you can buy) has 15-25% perfume oil dissolved in alcohol. Any mixture with a lower proportion of oil to alcohol is an eau (meaning water).
In order of strength:
Perfume oil or Pure Perfume lasts 6+ hours (15%-30% perfume oil in an oil rather than alcohol base) - Rare. Few fragrances are commercially available in this concentration, and those that are tend to be extremely costly.
Parfum or Perfume lasts up to 4 to 6 hours (15% - 25% -- also sometimes referred to as extract or extrait) - Uncommon. Not many fragrances are commecially available in this concentration, and those that are available are quite costly.
Soie de Parfum lasts 3 to 6 hours (15% - 18% perfume oil) - Not common in commercial release, as above.
Eau de parfum lasts 3 to 5 hours (8% - 15% perfume oil) - Fairly common. Price depends on the brand, the fragrance, etc., but will be more expensive than less concentrated fragrances, naturally. Currently very popular.
Eau de Toilette lasts 3 to 4 hours (4% - 10% perfume oil) - Common. Generally the strongest concentration available in men's fragrance.
Eau de Cologne lasts up to 3 hours (2% - 5% perfume oil) - Common. Was once a very popular concentration, but not as much now, at least in women's fragrances. Still fairly popular in fragrances for men.
After Shave lasts 2 to 3 hours (3% or less perfume oil) - Common. Also note that after shave often has aloe or other balms in it to sooth the skin after a shave, and the alcohol can help close pores.
Eau Fraiche lasts 1 hour or less (3% or less perfume oil) - Not very common. Sometimes referred to as "perfumed mist" or "splash". Often alcohol free.
These terms are commonly seen abbreviated, such as EDP for Eau de Parfum, EDT for Eau de Toilette, etc.
Occasionally we also see the term, Parfum de Toilette, which most companies use to describe a concentration that is either the same as Eau de Parfum, or between Eau de Parfum and Parfum. Other companies use the term to describe an Eau De Toilette concentration. (Yes, it can be muddled; we generally only deal in EDP, EDT, EDC, After Shave, and EF, to avoid our own confusion and that of our customers!)
Some fragrance houses also produce deodorant body sprays (very light and mostly alcohol; these fragrances last only a couple of hours or less, but can be nicely refreshing, especially when chilled), perfumed creams and lotions, perfumed body powder (usually a talcum base), and so forth. These can be useful for "layering" fragrance in order to make it last longer and create a stronger impression (see below).
Making Fragrance Last on Your Skin
Generally speaking, perfumes evaporate more rapidly from dry skin, so the best way to make fragrance last longer is to use a relatively heavy body lotion or cream prior to applying the perfume. Some people like to buy the "matching" cream for their fragrance, but you can also use an unscented cream or try almond oil or jojoba oil.
Don't spray fragrance in your hair. It's sometimes believed that this will make the fragrance last longer, but in fact the oils in your scalp can change the fragrance in a way you won't like, and the alcohol in the fragrance can dry your hair.
Don't spray fragrance directly on your clothes. It sounds like a good idea and will certainly make the fragrance last, but as it's designed to be on skin, not fabric, it may quickly turn into a smell you don't want around you as it reacts with the fabric. Additionally, some fabrics can be damaged or stained by direct exposure to perfumes, and it can prove extremely difficult to get the fragrance out of the fabric.
Don't spray fragrance into the air and then walk into it. This disperses most of the fragrance into the air (which is a waste of the fragrance), and you may end up with it on your face (a big no-no if you're at all prone to breakouts because of the high oil content in the perfume), your clothes, in your hair, etc., and it's not very effective as far as making the fragrance last.
Do dab or spray fragrance on areas of your body where the heat will cause the fragrance to slowly release.
The "pulse points", i.e., anywhere you can easily feel your pulse:
Inside of wrists
Inside of elbows
Base of the throat
Temples
Below and slightly behind the ears
Behind the knees (generally only good if you're wearing shorts or a skirt, but can be effective with very lightweight trousers)
Ankles (again, usually only effective if your ankles are uncovered, see above)
Breast cleavage or the middle of the chest, above the heart
There are a few other strong pulse points (such as the top of the inner thigh in the groin), but you'll have to decide for yourself if you want to perfume them...
Another trick that works very well is to take a cotton ball and spray it with fragrance and then tuck it into your cleavage. This works surprisingly well and can keep the fragrance noticibly present for a very long time (just be careful with expensive bras that might become stained; this works best for women who have a fair bit of cleavage into which to tuck things.)
Caring for Fragrances, Shelf Life, Etc.
Some industry experts maintain that you should replace perfume after a year, some say two years, but perfumes can and should last much longer with proper care. Most perfumes will keep for several years, some will keep for many more years than that. (You can tell when a perfume has gone off by several means: when a perfume turns it tends to become more oily, the colour will often change and become darker, the fragrance changes, sometimes subtly and sometimes very noticibly. Note that using fragrance that has turned probably won't harm you, but it won't smell very good and may have unexpected results on your skin, due to the chemical changes in the solution.)
To store perfume so it will last, keep it away from heat and light. A dark closet, a seldom-opened deep dresser drawer, or a covered box will work well. It may look pretty to have perfume bottles all sitting out attractively on your dresser or a windowsill, but exposure to light is a sure way to send your fine fragrances round the twist, so don't give in to the tempation (if you really want pretty bottles for display purposes, fill empty perfume containers with colored water).
Don't keep fine fragrances in the bathroom, as the heat and humidity will hasten the breakdown of the chemicals.
Don't store perfumes in the fridge (a common myth), as the humidity and temperature can cause unhappy changes in the chemistry (if you like the feel of chilled fragrance, use cologne or a body spray).
Also avoid, as much as possible, direct exposure to air. Splash or pour bottles, which expose the fragrance to air every time they are opened, cause problems, so consider decanting perfume into a smaller atomizer for regular use (also convienient for carrying along with you when you go out).
If you apply perfume directly from a bottle stopper, wipe the stopper with a clean, lint free cloth before replacing it in the bottle, to remove any body oils that may contaminate the perfume (and cause it to degrade more quickly).
Treat good perfume with a little bit of care, and it should keep you smelling fabulous for a very long time!
Top, Middle, and Base Notes
Top notes refers to the first scent impression of a fragrance once it has been applied to the skin. They are usually lighter, more volatile aromas that evaporate quickly. Their scent usually lingers for 5 to 30 minutes.
Middle notes are sometimes referred to as “heart notes”, and refer to the body of the blend. They may be noticible from the start, but will usually take 10-30 minutes to fully develop on the skin. These are the notes that classify the fragrance family (floral, oriental, chypre, etc, see below).
Base Notes are the aromas in the blend with the greatest molecular weight. They last the longest, and are also important as fixatives (fixitives help slow down the evaporation rates of the lighter notes and bind the ingredients, giving the fragrance holding power). Common base notes include oakmoss, patchouli, woods, musk, tonka bean, ambergris, and vanilla.
A fragrance which does not have traditional top, middle and base notes is usually described as "linear". Chanel Allure is a good example of a linear fragrance, as is Estée Lauder White Linen. In a linear fragrance you experience all of the notes more or less at the same time. A linear fragrance doesn't "develop" the way a traditional pyramid fragrance does, but smells the same throughout and instead of having new or different notes appear, it simply fades away slowly as you wear it.
Fragrance Familes
Note that some people (even in the industry) differ on that nature of fragrance families. The concept is a very old one, and dates back to a time when fragrances were simpler and there were far fewer of them. This is a general guideline only; other lists of fragrance families may differ (such as the Olifactive Families list on Wikipedia). These days, there's a lot of cross over between the traditional families, and many fragrances can be very difficult to classify.
Chypre (pronounced sheep-er)
A Chypre fragrance has woody, mossy and floral notes in some combination. This family will also often contain oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, bergamot, and vetiver. The name comes from the French Chypre, which is the French name for the island of Cyprus, from whence came many of the notes that make up this fragrance. Coty produced a women's fragrance in 1917 which was called "Chypre", and it's from that fragrance that the family actually takes its name.
Examples of the Chypre family include:
Masculine: Givenchy Gentleman, Fendi Uomo, Vetiver by Guerlain, Aramis, Van Cleef and Arpels, Quorum by Puig, Antaeus by Chanel, 212 Men by Carolina Herrera
Feminine: Cuir de Russe by Chanel, Mitsouko by Guerlain, Chypre de Coty
Floral
The majority of fragrances for women are floral. Some are a bouquet of different flowers, with each flower complementing the others, while some use one main flower and complement it with other notes and accords. Others are very simple and can just be the scent of a flower alone (these are called single-note scents). In the past, floral scent was considered as very masculine. Nowadays, especially in the West, these are slightly less popular as maculine fragrance.
Examples of the Floral family include:
Masculine: Agua Lavanda by Puig, Insensé by Givenchy
Feminine: Chanel No 19, Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel, L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci, Charlie by Revlon
Fougère (pronounced foo-jer)
Fougere fragrances are one of the most popular in men's fragrances, and they will often contain lavender and oakmoss. The term 'Fougere' is French for 'fern', a name which is derived from a now discontinued fragrance by the venerable house of Houbigant called Fougere Royale (Royal Fern) which was the first fougere fragrance.
Examples of the Fougère family include:
Masculine: Polo Sport by Ralph Lauren, Platinum Egoiste by Chanel, Cool Water by Davidoff, Jazz by YSL, Paco Rabanne pour Homme.
Marine
The Marine fragrance family is relatively new and is used to describe scents that evoke a feeling of the sea air. These fragrances use an ingredient called calone to give the marine scent.
Examples of the Marine family include:
Masculine: Kenzo Pour Homme, L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake, New West for Him by Aramis
Feminine: Escape by Calvin Klein, Inis by Fragrances of Ireland, Aquawoman by Rochas.
Oriental
Oriental fragrances are common in both men's and women's fragrances. They are often warm, spicy and sweet, and contain ingredients such as vanilla and musk. Sandalwood and patchouli are also very common in these fragrances.
Examples of the Oriental family include:
Masculine: Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein, Joop! Homme by Joop!, Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier, Equipage by Hermes, Egoiste by Chanel
Feminine: Shalimar by Guerlain, Jean Paul Gaultier "Classique", Angel by Thierry Mugler, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent
Common Fragrance Ingredients
Aldehydes
Organic chemical compounds derived from natural or synthetic ingredients. There are many, many kinds of aldehydes, and more are being created. Aldehydes are used to alter, enhance, brighten, or soften perfume formulations. Chanel perfumer Ernest Beaux is credited with being the first to use aldehydes to give No. 5 a rich and brilliant sheen it would otherwise lack.
Amber
Processed from the fossil resin of the fir tree, and sometimes from the leaves of the cistus (rock rose) plant (see also cistus, below). Amber gives perfumes a warm, slightly smoky, burnished leather fragrance and is usually used as a base ingredient to add a mellow grow, as well as being an excellent fixitive to bind the other ingredients together. Extensively synthesised in many subtle variations of the basic amber scent.
Ambergris
A fatty/oily substance regurgitated from the stomach of the sperm whale. This substance has a disgusting natural smell, but when processed it takes on a warm, sensual fragrance which is used with great discretion in the base notes of very exclusive perfumes. Because it is now far too costly to collect commercially in its natural state, it is usually replicated synthetically with almost identical effect.
Balsam
A rich, gummy resin which is harvested from specific trees, shrubs, and plants usually found in northern Africa and Southeast Asia. Balsam is sweetly aromatic with a honey-like sensuality. It is used in the base notes of perfumes, usually of the Oriental family.
Benzoin (BEN-zjwahn)
A sweet, cocoa-like balsamic resin derived from processing the resin of the tropical Southeast Asian stryax tree (see also styrax, below). It is used in the base notes of perfumes (mostly Orientals) to give a deep, rich, chocolatey note, and it is an excellent fixitive.
Bergamot
An essential oil made from the peel of the small, sour, inedible bergamot orange. It is powerful, highly distinctive, and gives its bright, zesty, citrus scent to about one-third of all perfumes, usually in the top notes. (Essence of bergamot is also the distinctive difference in Earl Grey tea, just as a side note.)
Bulgarian rose
A special variety of rose, grown in huge commercial quantities in Bulgaria's "Valley of Roses". This flower yields the' finest rose absolu (rose essence), and is incredibly rich and heady. Because of its richness, potency, and desirability, it is extremely expensive and is used only the most luxurious of perfumes.
Cassia (kass-EES)
A richly scented and powerfully potent aromatic oil distilled from black-currant buds to impart a dark, deep, pungent fruity fragrance.
Cistus (also Labdanum)
Cistus is a fragrant oil distilled from the gum of leaves and twigs of the shrub known as the rock rose (also known as the cistus; see also amber, above), which is grown profusely around the Mediterranean. It has a warm, leathery amber scent and is also an efficient fixitive.
Civet
One of the most powerful fixitives still used in perfume. This ingredient was originally obtained from the genital glands of the Abyssinian civet cat. In its raw state the smell is absolutely horrible, but when processed and used in minute quantities, it creates a sensual, seductive fragrance note. Now obtained synthetically (as the animal is endangered).
Courmarin
Found naturally in tonka beans (see below), clover, and lavender, but today it is mainly synthestised for greater control in the base notes of perfume. Courmarin gives perfumes a rich almond/marzipan and slightly sweet-green note, similar to freshly mown hay.
Fixitives
The very strong ingredients in the base of the perfume's construction that bind all the other ingredients in the formula. Fixitives allow the perfume to fade gradually while remaining pleasant and fresh. They are usually gums, resins, and balsams.
Galbanum
A rare, extremely expensive gum resin derived from the sap of Asian ferula trees, found mostly in Iran. Used to give an intensely green, leafy, fresh note to perfumes.
Guaiac wood
An aromatic resin and oil derived from the heartwood of the South American palsanto tree. It is used as both a fixative and to impart an unusual floral/wood note reminiscent of rose, violet, and white tea.
Heliotrope
Sometimes called the "Cherry Pie Plant", heliotrope is a flowering shrub which bears clusters of intensely perfumed purple blossoms, from which is distilled an oil with a sweet vanilla/cherry fragrance.
Heliotropin
A chemical aldehyde which is extracted from sassafras. It has a floral/almond scent, similar to heliotrope.
Iris (also "Florentine Iris" also Orris)
An aromatic oil or butter somewhat reminiscent of violets, derived from the specially dried roots of the iris (a process which originated in the city of Florence and which is still carried out there). Some iris oils may have a woody smell with a fainter hint of violets, depending on the process used. This is one of the most expensive ingredients used in perfumes, and is commonly also known as orris.
Leather
Derived from certain birch and fir trees, or, more rarely, from the distilled essence of treated hides. Imparts a strong, animalistic, warm, smoky scent that gives a burnished note to many perfumes, particularly Orientals. Today, it is usually chemically synthesised for greater control of the fragrance.
Mimosa
Derived from the bark, wood, leaves, and fragrant blossoms of the mimosa tree (known sometimes as "wattle", particularly in Australia). This ingredient gives a sweet, fresh, warm, but light effect.
Muguet (MEW-gay)
French for lily of the valley, this scent is sweet, bright, and quite penetrating. Due to the difficulty of capturing the natural essence, it has for many years been synthetically but very convincingly manufactured.
Musk
An extremely strong but pleasantly sensual ingredient traditionally obtained from the musk glands of the Himalayan musk deer. Today, it almost exclusively synthetically manufactured and available in a considerably array of varieties and strengths (such as white musk, pink musk, amber musk, etc.). Musk imparts an instantly recognisable, warm, sensual scent, and is a strong fixative which is used in the base of a very wide variety of perfumes. Most perfumes use it sparingly, as it can be quite strong, and even "musk" perfumes are actually blends.
Myrrh
A highly arromatic gum resin derived from the shrubby tree known as the Commiphora myrrha, native to north Africa, although there is also a type of myrrh known as East Indian myrrh (derived from a similar shrub from a different region). This substance has been highly prized since ancient times and used in ointments, perfumes, incense, and other aromatic concoctions. In modern perfumes, mostly Orientals, it is used to impart an exotic, incense-like note.
Neroli
An intensely perfumed oil obtained from the fragrant, unopened buds of the Seville bitter orange tree, used as a bright, citrus top note in hundreds of perfumes. The opened buds of the same tree yield an orange flower absolute (essential oil).
Oakmoss
A smooth, woody ingredient derived from a particular lichen which grows mainly on oak trees in southern-central Europe. Commonly used in the base notes, it gives a dark green, mossy-damp, forest-floor scent to a perfume. It is an excellent fixitive.
Olibarnum (also Frankincense)
A highly aromatic resin derived from the boswellia tree, native to northern Africa. It adds a heady, spicy, and slightly smoky note, and is used in the base as it is also an excellent fixitive.
Opoponax
A gum resin with a sweet licorice/green scent, similar to myrrh. It is also an excellent fixative.
Orris, Orris Root
See Iris, Florentine Iris, above.
Patchouli
A natural ingredient derived from the leaves of the Southeast Asian patchouli plant. It provides an earthy-sweet note which, used discreetly, gives a huge number of fine perfumes a sensual note.
Petitgrain (PETTY-grahn)
A bittersweet citrus oil derived from the roots (and some sources include the leaves and bark) of the Seville orange tree (see neroli, above). It adds a light, sparkling, citrus scent to the top notes of perfume.
Rose de Mai (May Rose)
A powerful, precious essence distilled from the rosa centifolia, grown in southern France (especially in Grasse), and also in northern Africa. The scent is a piercing, memorable pure rose fragrance, and it is used in countless perfumes.
Rosewood
A precious oil obtained from the Brazilian rosewood tree (known in Australia as the jacaranda), and nothing at all to do with roses. This oil has a warm, rich, mildly resinous scent and is used to impart a stronger woody note than can be obtained from sandalwood.
Sandalwood
An extremely common and highly popular ingredient, very few fine perfumes are without this oil, which is distilled from the timber and roots of the sandalwood tree.
Styrax
From the bark of the Asian styrax tree is derived this oddly sweet aromatic oil, reminiscent of jonquils (the styrax tree also is the source of benzoin, see above). Styrax has an oddly sweet scent reminsicent of jonquils, and as it is an efficient fixitive, it is usually used in the base notes (primiarily in Orientals).
Tiaré (tee-AR-ray)
A relative of the gardenia, although with smaller flowers, native to Tahiti and French Polynesia. A gardenia fragrance can be distilled from the blossoms much more easily than from the classic gardenia (which is notoriously difficult to distil and is usually synthesised).
Tonka Bean
A powerfully fragrant oil extracted from the pods and seeds of the South American tonka tree. The oil has a unique sugar caramel/almond marzipan scent with a somewhat earthy accord. Used primarily in the base notes of Oriental perfumes.
Tuberose
A member of the lily family, and not a rose at all, famous for its fantastically powerful, sweet, heady fragrance. Used in hundreds of finely balanced floral bouquet perfumes.
Vanilla
Vanilla essence or absolute is extracted from the seeds and beans of the vanilla orchid. In perfume, vanilla both a warm, sensual, softly sweet fragrance and a fixitive, and is found in the base notes of hundreds of perfumes, many of them Orientals.
Vanillin
Vanillin is an excellent synthetic derived from the vanilla pod. It is somewhat sweeter and lacks the complexity and depth of the natural essence, but, like vanilla, is commonly used in the base of hundreds of different perfumes.
Vetiver (French: vetyver)
An essential oil extracted from the fragrant khuskhus grass, a native of southern India, Sri Lanka, Haiti, and the Caribbean. The fragrance of the oil is green/earthy, and is used in the middle and base notes of many fragrances, particularly of the fresh green variety.
Violet/Violet leaf
The scent of violet is almost impossible to extract from the blossom, itself, so the violet fragrance is usually synthetically reproduced or suggested by the use of Orris (Florentine Iris - see above). Natural violet leaves have a peppery, green, crispy sort of fragrance with a hint of the blossom's fragrance, and add natural cool freshness to perfumes.
Ylang-Ylang (ee-LANG ee-LANG)
"Flower of Flowers" in the Philippine language of Tagalog. This fragrant oil is extracted from the long, highly scented flowers of the Cananga odorata tree which grows across the Philippines, Southeast Asia, and in the Comoros Islands in the Indian Ocean. The scent is somewhat exotic, rich, heady, sweet, and slightly musky. It is a principla ingredient in a great number of Floral perfumes as well as Orientals.
Testers, Minis, and Vials
Fragrance houses produce and sell miniature fragrances and vials as a means of promoting new fragrances, or to generate interest in older ones. Since the early 1990s, the sale of miniature fragrances has blossomed into a multi-million dollar business world wide, partly because of their appeal as collectibles.
Fragrance companies are well aware of distributors and retailers selling miniature perfumes, but in some cases the traditional "sample" or "not for resale" labelling is still printed on the box or sometimes on the bottle, even though they're sold in volume to distributors to resell. (We guess that old habits sometimes die hard!)
These items ARE legal to sell (and a good many retail and wholesale sellers in Australia and around the world do, indeed, sell them!).
A tester is a fragrance house's own testing perfume, such as you would try at a department store. They are marketed for the purpose of allowing a retail outlet the ability to purchase a less expensive packaging of the full fragrance so that customers can try the fragrance. The fragrance and concentration is identical to the full retail package (else there wouldn't be much point in letting customers test it!).
Since packaging isn't an issue with testers, most are either unboxed or in a plain cardboard manufacturer's box and some come without caps. As you're not paying for unnecessary packaging, testers are offered at a considerable discount. Same fragrance, slightly different package, terrific bargain.
0908276061
Party Perfume
Yến, Q8, 0908276061
We went out to a big family birthday party last night. It wasn't a wild party or anything, but certainly an event, with a hired venue, catered dinner, loads of brightly coloured balloons, and a live jazz trio.
While getting ready to go, I had my husband help with a few things, like jewellery. Finally, when I had everything ready I said, "Ah, time for the perfume." Jokingly, I then turned to my husband and said, "Got any suggestions, then?"
I say "jokingly" because he's got a fairly unsophsticated nose. He can almost never recognize a perfume by the scent, let alone pick one by name, but he surprised me. He answered, "J'adore, definitely."
He has, in the past, commented that while most perfumes sort of smell the the same to him, he can recognize that J'adore is a complex fragrance, and he can detect some of the subtle layers of scent in it. Perhaps that's why he remembered it, or perhaps it was just a lucky guess. I mean, I wear Tresôr regularly and he knows the name of it, and he knows the name of Diorissimo (which he'd never suggest because he doesn't like it) and Opium...
Anyway, I thought it was a splendid idea,and I did, indeed wear J'adore. I wore it layered, with the gorgeous scented cream going on first, and then the eau de parfum on top. When I woke up in the morning, I could still smell the lingering, delicate basenotes...
So maybe I'll ask him more often and see what he says. I let him pick my jewellery sometimes, and occasionally my food, so why not my perfume? Even if it was just a lucky hit, it was a great suggestion. (He, by the way, wore his favourite and mine, Caron Pour Un Homme.)
Yến, Q8, 0908276061
We went out to a big family birthday party last night. It wasn't a wild party or anything, but certainly an event, with a hired venue, catered dinner, loads of brightly coloured balloons, and a live jazz trio.
While getting ready to go, I had my husband help with a few things, like jewellery. Finally, when I had everything ready I said, "Ah, time for the perfume." Jokingly, I then turned to my husband and said, "Got any suggestions, then?"
I say "jokingly" because he's got a fairly unsophsticated nose. He can almost never recognize a perfume by the scent, let alone pick one by name, but he surprised me. He answered, "J'adore, definitely."
He has, in the past, commented that while most perfumes sort of smell the the same to him, he can recognize that J'adore is a complex fragrance, and he can detect some of the subtle layers of scent in it. Perhaps that's why he remembered it, or perhaps it was just a lucky guess. I mean, I wear Tresôr regularly and he knows the name of it, and he knows the name of Diorissimo (which he'd never suggest because he doesn't like it) and Opium...
Anyway, I thought it was a splendid idea,and I did, indeed wear J'adore. I wore it layered, with the gorgeous scented cream going on first, and then the eau de parfum on top. When I woke up in the morning, I could still smell the lingering, delicate basenotes...
So maybe I'll ask him more often and see what he says. I let him pick my jewellery sometimes, and occasionally my food, so why not my perfume? Even if it was just a lucky hit, it was a great suggestion. (He, by the way, wore his favourite and mine, Caron Pour Un Homme.)
0919150564
Vân Anh , Tân Bình, 0919150564
But celebrities also carry a risk, with their faces becoming liabilities when they fall out of public favor, encounter personal problems or are not seen to reflect the brand.
When Madonna was the face for Versace, consumers' perception of the brand fell 7.3 percent, meaning they were less likely to buy a Versace product, according to research firm Brand Keys, which studies brands.
"What you got with Madonna is someone who as a performer is always reinventing herself," said Brand Keys' president Robert Passikoff.
"For a performer that is a good thing;, but as a standard bearer for a certain set of values, it's extraordinarily schizophrenic, and that is what happened with Versace."
But celebrities also carry a risk, with their faces becoming liabilities when they fall out of public favor, encounter personal problems or are not seen to reflect the brand.
When Madonna was the face for Versace, consumers' perception of the brand fell 7.3 percent, meaning they were less likely to buy a Versace product, according to research firm Brand Keys, which studies brands.
"What you got with Madonna is someone who as a performer is always reinventing herself," said Brand Keys' president Robert Passikoff.
"For a performer that is a good thing;, but as a standard bearer for a certain set of values, it's extraordinarily schizophrenic, and that is what happened with Versace."
0983993677
Thúy, Tân Bình,0983993677
con....
"(We are) definitely seeing that the brands that have had a strong celebrity alliance have done extremely well in the marketplace, whether it is to get initial awareness or revitalizing a brand."
Last year, celebrity fragrances represented almost a quarter of the top 100 women's fragrance brands, up from 10 percent in 2003, according to the NPD group.
CELEBRITY MARKETING
Elizabeth Taylor is said to have been the first celebrity to successfully put her scent in a bottle, in 1991, when she launched her "White Diamonds" perfume.
Reuters Pictures
Editors Choice: Best pictures
from the last 24 hours.
View Slideshow
But the trend really gained traction with the success of Jennifer Lopez's perfume "Glow," which was launched in 2002 and generated more than $80 million in sales in its first year.
Since then, the trend has reached a fever pitch, with perfume counters surrounded by ads featuring famous faces including those of actresses Gwyneth Paltrow, Nicole Kidman and Catherine Zeta-Jones.
For celebrities, product branding gives them a new line of income. For marketers, it is often an easy way to sell a product because celebrities are already well known.
"The marketing effort does not have to be as strong, because the celebrity already comes with a fan base," said Kenneth Hirst, founder of design firm Hirst Pacific, which designed one of Jennifer Lopez's perfumes, "Still."
"Celebrities cross borders. They have fans everywhere
con....
"(We are) definitely seeing that the brands that have had a strong celebrity alliance have done extremely well in the marketplace, whether it is to get initial awareness or revitalizing a brand."
Last year, celebrity fragrances represented almost a quarter of the top 100 women's fragrance brands, up from 10 percent in 2003, according to the NPD group.
CELEBRITY MARKETING
Elizabeth Taylor is said to have been the first celebrity to successfully put her scent in a bottle, in 1991, when she launched her "White Diamonds" perfume.
Reuters Pictures
Editors Choice: Best pictures
from the last 24 hours.
View Slideshow
But the trend really gained traction with the success of Jennifer Lopez's perfume "Glow," which was launched in 2002 and generated more than $80 million in sales in its first year.
Since then, the trend has reached a fever pitch, with perfume counters surrounded by ads featuring famous faces including those of actresses Gwyneth Paltrow, Nicole Kidman and Catherine Zeta-Jones.
For celebrities, product branding gives them a new line of income. For marketers, it is often an easy way to sell a product because celebrities are already well known.
"The marketing effort does not have to be as strong, because the celebrity already comes with a fan base," said Kenneth Hirst, founder of design firm Hirst Pacific, which designed one of Jennifer Lopez's perfumes, "Still."
"Celebrities cross borders. They have fans everywhere
0907741949
Eau no! More celebrity scents!
Thảo, Tân Bình, 0907741949
By Rachelle Younglai
TORONTO (Reuters) - If it looks like celebrities are crowding the perfume counter at department stores this holiday season -- that's because they are, with 2006 shaping up as a record year for celebrity scents.
The rich and famous have turned the public obsession with their lives into a highly profitable industry, with 37 celebrity scents flooding onto the market in the past 3 years and no sign of the trend coming to an end.
This year, in the run-up to 2006's big spending season, another 23 new celebrity scents have so far joined the pack, launched by the likes of actresses Hilary Swank, Jennifer Lopez, English footballer David Beckham and even television's Desperate Housewives.
Reuters Pictures
Editors Choice: Best pictures
from the last 24 hours.
View Slideshow
"It seems to be what the consumer wants," said Mary Ellen Lapsansky, executive director with the Fragrance Foundation, which tracks fragrances in the United States.
"Celebrities drive everything today. They endorse everything from wrist watches to you name it."
Out of 205 new fragrances launched in 2005, there were 23 celebrity scents, according to the Fragrance Foundation.
That is up dramatically from 2004, when eight celebrity scents were launched, and 2003, when six launched.
"It's definitely becoming more mainstream. We do see that the celebrity fragrances do seem to resonate more with the young consumers," said Karen Grant, senior beauty industry analyst with market research firm NPD Group
Thảo, Tân Bình, 0907741949
By Rachelle Younglai
TORONTO (Reuters) - If it looks like celebrities are crowding the perfume counter at department stores this holiday season -- that's because they are, with 2006 shaping up as a record year for celebrity scents.
The rich and famous have turned the public obsession with their lives into a highly profitable industry, with 37 celebrity scents flooding onto the market in the past 3 years and no sign of the trend coming to an end.
This year, in the run-up to 2006's big spending season, another 23 new celebrity scents have so far joined the pack, launched by the likes of actresses Hilary Swank, Jennifer Lopez, English footballer David Beckham and even television's Desperate Housewives.
Reuters Pictures
Editors Choice: Best pictures
from the last 24 hours.
View Slideshow
"It seems to be what the consumer wants," said Mary Ellen Lapsansky, executive director with the Fragrance Foundation, which tracks fragrances in the United States.
"Celebrities drive everything today. They endorse everything from wrist watches to you name it."
Out of 205 new fragrances launched in 2005, there were 23 celebrity scents, according to the Fragrance Foundation.
That is up dramatically from 2004, when eight celebrity scents were launched, and 2003, when six launched.
"It's definitely becoming more mainstream. We do see that the celebrity fragrances do seem to resonate more with the young consumers," said Karen Grant, senior beauty industry analyst with market research firm NPD Group
0902957972
Lancome Magie Noir 30ml EDT BNIB Authentic RRP$70
Trà, q1, 0902957972
This classic fragrance was introduced in 1978, Magie Noir, black magic in French, is a heady, and enveloping scent in the classic oriental tradition. Exotic top notes of hyacinth, cassia, bergamot, rasberry, and galbanum, a sensual heart of jasmine, ylang-ylang, Bulgarian rose, lily of the valley, narcissus, honey, tuberose, and orris, and rich basenotes including spices, sandalwood, ambergris, cedarwood, patchouli, oakmoss, musk, civet all combine to create real "black magic". Magie Noir - The Source of Enchantment!
Brand: Magie Noir by Lancôme
Size: 30ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$70
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Trà, q1, 0902957972
This classic fragrance was introduced in 1978, Magie Noir, black magic in French, is a heady, and enveloping scent in the classic oriental tradition. Exotic top notes of hyacinth, cassia, bergamot, rasberry, and galbanum, a sensual heart of jasmine, ylang-ylang, Bulgarian rose, lily of the valley, narcissus, honey, tuberose, and orris, and rich basenotes including spices, sandalwood, ambergris, cedarwood, patchouli, oakmoss, musk, civet all combine to create real "black magic". Magie Noir - The Source of Enchantment!
Brand: Magie Noir by Lancôme
Size: 30ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$70
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
0986263204
Britney Spears Curious 100ml EDP BNIB Authentic RRP$109
Nhung, Tân Bình, 0986263204
Brand: Curious by Britney Spears
Size: 100ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
RRP: AU$109
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Introduced in 2004, Curious by Britney Spears opens with inviting notes from the American south, including Louisiana magnolia, golden Anjou pear, and dewy lotus flower. The anticipation builds with a bouquet heart of white flowers and pink cyclamen, and the base notes of vanilla-infused musk enveloped in rich, creamy sandalwood and radiant blonde woods weave a satisfying sensual fragrance finish. Satisfy your own curiosity!
Nhung, Tân Bình, 0986263204
Brand: Curious by Britney Spears
Size: 100ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
RRP: AU$109
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Introduced in 2004, Curious by Britney Spears opens with inviting notes from the American south, including Louisiana magnolia, golden Anjou pear, and dewy lotus flower. The anticipation builds with a bouquet heart of white flowers and pink cyclamen, and the base notes of vanilla-infused musk enveloped in rich, creamy sandalwood and radiant blonde woods weave a satisfying sensual fragrance finish. Satisfy your own curiosity!
Ngọc ,Q6, 0908414948
Caron Pour Un Homme 100ml EDT BNIB Authentic RRP$68
Ngọc ,Q6, 0908414948
Brand: Pour Homme by Caron
Size: 100ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$68
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Introduced in 1934, Caron Pour Un Homme (also seen as "Caron Pour Homme") is a fresh, sensual scent with strong notes of lavender and bergamot, accented with lemon, rosemary, sage, and a delightful vanilla and cedarwood base for a delicious concoction that is a masculine fragrance classic. Delightful!
Note: This fine fragrance can be surprisingly difficult to find in Australia unless you're willing to pay full retail prices, and even then it can be tricky to get, so here's your chance to get this great fragrance at a great price!
Ngọc ,Q6, 0908414948
Brand: Pour Homme by Caron
Size: 100ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$68
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Introduced in 1934, Caron Pour Un Homme (also seen as "Caron Pour Homme") is a fresh, sensual scent with strong notes of lavender and bergamot, accented with lemon, rosemary, sage, and a delightful vanilla and cedarwood base for a delicious concoction that is a masculine fragrance classic. Delightful!
Note: This fine fragrance can be surprisingly difficult to find in Australia unless you're willing to pay full retail prices, and even then it can be tricky to get, so here's your chance to get this great fragrance at a great price!
0909600409
Armani Acqua di Gio Homme 100ml After Shave BNIB RRP$114
Ngọc, Q1, 0909600409
Introduced in 1996, this light, aquatic masculine fragrance has become a worldwide favourite. With refreshing top notes of jasmine and rosemary giving way to softer aquatic and fruity heartnotes highlighted with cedar, and a base of patchouli and white musk, this fragrance is crisp, appealing, and bright. Charming!
Brand: Acqua di Gio pour Homme by Giorgio Armani
Size: 100ml
Strength: After Shave (Balm)
RRP: AU$114
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Ngọc, Q1, 0909600409
Introduced in 1996, this light, aquatic masculine fragrance has become a worldwide favourite. With refreshing top notes of jasmine and rosemary giving way to softer aquatic and fruity heartnotes highlighted with cedar, and a base of patchouli and white musk, this fragrance is crisp, appealing, and bright. Charming!
Brand: Acqua di Gio pour Homme by Giorgio Armani
Size: 100ml
Strength: After Shave (Balm)
RRP: AU$114
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
0902174953
Davidoff Cool Water for Men 75ml EDT BNIB Authentic RRP$95
Nghi, Bình Thạnh , 0902174953
Brand: Pour Homme by Caron
Size: 100ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$68
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Introduced in 1934, Caron Pour Un Homme (also seen as "Caron Pour Homme") is a fresh, sensual scent with strong notes of lavender and bergamot, accented with lemon, rosemary, sage, and a delightful vanilla and cedarwood base for a delicious concoction that is a masculine fragrance classic. Delightful!
Note: This fine fragrance can be surprisingly difficult to find in Australia unless you're willing to pay full retail prices, and even then it can be tricky to get, so here's your chance to get this great fragrance at a great price!
Nghi, Bình Thạnh , 0902174953
Brand: Pour Homme by Caron
Size: 100ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$68
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Introduced in 1934, Caron Pour Un Homme (also seen as "Caron Pour Homme") is a fresh, sensual scent with strong notes of lavender and bergamot, accented with lemon, rosemary, sage, and a delightful vanilla and cedarwood base for a delicious concoction that is a masculine fragrance classic. Delightful!
Note: This fine fragrance can be surprisingly difficult to find in Australia unless you're willing to pay full retail prices, and even then it can be tricky to get, so here's your chance to get this great fragrance at a great price!
0918919278
Guerlain Vetiver 75ml EDT BNIB Authentic RRP$98
Mai, Tân Bình , 0918919278
Brand: Vetiver by Guerlain
Size: 75ml Natural Spray
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$98
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Originally introduced in 1961 and relaunched in 2000 with new packaging (but the same fragrance), this is an absolute classic. This masculine fragrance features bright citrus and coriander top notes that give way to the earthy heart notes of vetiver and cedar, all settled on a rich base of tobacco, nutmeg, pepper, tonka bean, and capiscum. Stunningly male!
Mai, Tân Bình , 0918919278
Brand: Vetiver by Guerlain
Size: 75ml Natural Spray
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$98
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Originally introduced in 1961 and relaunched in 2000 with new packaging (but the same fragrance), this is an absolute classic. This masculine fragrance features bright citrus and coriander top notes that give way to the earthy heart notes of vetiver and cedar, all settled on a rich base of tobacco, nutmeg, pepper, tonka bean, and capiscum. Stunningly male!
0902002077
Essenza di Zegna 50ml EDT BNIB Authentic RRP$114
Loan , Tân Bình, 0902002077
Brand: Essenza di Zegna by Zegna
Size: 50ml Natural Spray
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$90
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Introduced in 2003, this aquatic, masculine fragrance features refreshing citrus top notes of mandarin and bergamot, earthy heartnotes of myrtle and cardamom, and a rich base of vetiver, amber, and musk. Richly masculine, but sharply attractive and bright. Contemporary and fresh
Loan , Tân Bình, 0902002077
Brand: Essenza di Zegna by Zegna
Size: 50ml Natural Spray
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$90
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Introduced in 2003, this aquatic, masculine fragrance features refreshing citrus top notes of mandarin and bergamot, earthy heartnotes of myrtle and cardamom, and a rich base of vetiver, amber, and musk. Richly masculine, but sharply attractive and bright. Contemporary and fresh
0902997851
Armani Acqua di Gio Pour Homme 100ml EDT BNIB RRP$132
Linh - Thảo , tân bình, 0902997851
Brand: Acqua di Gio pour Homme by Giorgio Armani
Size: 100ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$132
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Introduced in 1996, this light, aquatic masculine fragrance has become a worldwide favourite. With refreshing top notes of jasmine and rosemary giving way to softer aquatic and fruity heartnotes highlighted with cedar, and a base of patchouli and white musk, this fragrance is crisp, appealing, and bright. Charming!
Linh - Thảo , tân bình, 0902997851
Brand: Acqua di Gio pour Homme by Giorgio Armani
Size: 100ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$132
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Introduced in 1996, this light, aquatic masculine fragrance has become a worldwide favourite. With refreshing top notes of jasmine and rosemary giving way to softer aquatic and fruity heartnotes highlighted with cedar, and a base of patchouli and white musk, this fragrance is crisp, appealing, and bright. Charming!
0918 514376
Davidoff Cool Water for Men 75ml EDT BNIB Authentic RRP$95
Kiều , Gò Vấp, 0918 514376
Brand: Pour Homme by Caron
Size: 100ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$68
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Introduced in 1934, Caron Pour Un Homme (also seen as "Caron Pour Homme") is a fresh, sensual scent with strong notes of lavender and bergamot, accented with lemon, rosemary, sage, and a delightful vanilla and cedarwood base for a delicious concoction that is a masculine fragrance classic. Delightful!
Note: This fine fragrance can be surprisingly difficult to find in Australia unless you're willing to pay full retail prices, and even then it can be tricky to get, so here's your chance to get this great fragrance at a great price!
Kiều , Gò Vấp, 0918 514376
Brand: Pour Homme by Caron
Size: 100ml natural spray bottle
Strength: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
RRP: AU$68
Condition: Brand new, boxed, never tested, never used
Introduced in 1934, Caron Pour Un Homme (also seen as "Caron Pour Homme") is a fresh, sensual scent with strong notes of lavender and bergamot, accented with lemon, rosemary, sage, and a delightful vanilla and cedarwood base for a delicious concoction that is a masculine fragrance classic. Delightful!
Note: This fine fragrance can be surprisingly difficult to find in Australia unless you're willing to pay full retail prices, and even then it can be tricky to get, so here's your chance to get this great fragrance at a great price!
0907682900
Monkeys using perfume? Study investigates
Nov. 17, 2006
Hồng , SG , 0907682900
Move over Ralph Lauren, Dolce & Gabbana and other purveyors of glamor perfumes. The next rage in fragrance may be Eau de spider monkey.
Scientists have been reporting sightings of wild spider monkeys rubbing themselves with chewed-up leaves that may function as perfumes. Although it’s unproven that they do it specifically to take on an aroma, mounting evidence points that way, the investigators say.
Black-handed spider monkey (courtesy rainforestanimals.com)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The scents “may play a role in the context of social communication, possibly for signaling of social status or to increase sexual attractiveness,” scientists wrote in the Nov. 14 advance online issue of the research journal Primates.
In the report, Matthias Laska and colleagues of the University of Munich Medical School in Germany described watching a group of 10 free-ranging black-handed spider monkeys for a total of 250 hours.
The species, formally named Ateles geoffroyi, is one of four species of spider monkeys—small, acrobatic primates that fling themselves among treetops and live between southern Brazil and central Mexico.
Working in Mexico, Laska’s team recorded “20 episodes of self-anointing, that is, the application of scent-bearing material onto the body,” all by two males.
“The animals used the leaves of three species of plants,” including wild celery, they wrote. “The leaves of all three plant species spread an intensive and aromatic odor when crushed.”
Wild celery (courtesy U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To show that the mishmash indeed functions as a sort of cologne, researchers would have to demonstrate that it isn’t being used for a different purpose. Primates and other animals are widely reported to use certain plants as medications, and sometimes rub themselves with natural substances that act as bug repellents.
However, a small but growing number of researchers in recent years have argued that some animals may anoint themselves with scents for social purposes.
Laska’s team found, in accord with a past study, that the spider monkeys swiped the fragrant mix only on their armpits and breastbone areas, and that this occurred independently of time of day, season, temperature or humidity. The previous study—published in 2000—also found, consistent with the new one, that males do it more often than females.
All these considerations, according to the authors of both studies, clash with the idea that the lotions function as bug repellents or skin medications.
Laska’s team recorded three plants being used: the Alamos pea tree, Brongniartia alamosana; the trumpet tree Cecropia obtusifolia; and wild celery, Apium graveolens. The 2000 study, by Christina J. Campbell of the University of California, Berkeley, found Ateles geoffroyi in Panama using three other plants. All from the Rutaceae or citrus family, these included key lime.
Nov. 17, 2006
Hồng , SG , 0907682900
Move over Ralph Lauren, Dolce & Gabbana and other purveyors of glamor perfumes. The next rage in fragrance may be Eau de spider monkey.
Scientists have been reporting sightings of wild spider monkeys rubbing themselves with chewed-up leaves that may function as perfumes. Although it’s unproven that they do it specifically to take on an aroma, mounting evidence points that way, the investigators say.
Black-handed spider monkey (courtesy rainforestanimals.com)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The scents “may play a role in the context of social communication, possibly for signaling of social status or to increase sexual attractiveness,” scientists wrote in the Nov. 14 advance online issue of the research journal Primates.
In the report, Matthias Laska and colleagues of the University of Munich Medical School in Germany described watching a group of 10 free-ranging black-handed spider monkeys for a total of 250 hours.
The species, formally named Ateles geoffroyi, is one of four species of spider monkeys—small, acrobatic primates that fling themselves among treetops and live between southern Brazil and central Mexico.
Working in Mexico, Laska’s team recorded “20 episodes of self-anointing, that is, the application of scent-bearing material onto the body,” all by two males.
“The animals used the leaves of three species of plants,” including wild celery, they wrote. “The leaves of all three plant species spread an intensive and aromatic odor when crushed.”
Wild celery (courtesy U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To show that the mishmash indeed functions as a sort of cologne, researchers would have to demonstrate that it isn’t being used for a different purpose. Primates and other animals are widely reported to use certain plants as medications, and sometimes rub themselves with natural substances that act as bug repellents.
However, a small but growing number of researchers in recent years have argued that some animals may anoint themselves with scents for social purposes.
Laska’s team found, in accord with a past study, that the spider monkeys swiped the fragrant mix only on their armpits and breastbone areas, and that this occurred independently of time of day, season, temperature or humidity. The previous study—published in 2000—also found, consistent with the new one, that males do it more often than females.
All these considerations, according to the authors of both studies, clash with the idea that the lotions function as bug repellents or skin medications.
Laska’s team recorded three plants being used: the Alamos pea tree, Brongniartia alamosana; the trumpet tree Cecropia obtusifolia; and wild celery, Apium graveolens. The 2000 study, by Christina J. Campbell of the University of California, Berkeley, found Ateles geoffroyi in Panama using three other plants. All from the Rutaceae or citrus family, these included key lime.
Sunday, November 19, 2006
History of perfume and perfumery
The word perfume used today derives from the Latin "per fume", meaning through smoke. Perfumery, or the art of making perfumes, began in ancient Egypt but was developed and further refined by the Romans and the Arabs. Although perfume and perfumery also existed in East Asia, much of its fragrances are Incense based.
Islamic
Islamic cultures contributed significantly in the development of western perfumery in both perfecting the extraction of fragrances through steam distillation and introducing new, raw ingredients. Both of the raw ingredients and distillation technology significantly influenced western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.
As traders, Islamic cultures such as the Arabs and Persians had wider access to different spices, herbals, and other fragrance material. In addition to trading them, many of these exotic materials were cultivated by the Muslims such that they can be successfully grown outside of their native climates. Two examples of this include jasmine, which is native to South and Southeast Asia, and various citrus, which are native to East Asia. Both of these ingredients are still highly important in modern perfumery.
In Islamic culture, perfume usage has been documented as far back as the 6th century and its usage is considered a religious duty. The Prophet Muhammad said:
The taking of a bath on Friday is compulsory for every male Muslim who has attained the age of puberty and (also) the cleaning of his teeth with Miswaak (type of twig used as a toothbrush), and the using of perfume if it is available. (Recorded in Sahih Bukhari).
Such rituals gave incentives to scholars to search and develop a cheaper way to produce incenses and in mass production. Thanks to the hard work of two talented chemists: Jabir ibn Hayyan (born 722, Iraq), and al-Kindi (born 801, Iraq) who established the perfume industry. Jabir developed many techniques, including distillation, evaporation and filtration, which enabled the collection of the odour of plants into a vapour that could be collected in the form of water or oil. [5]
Al-Kindi, however, was the real founder of perfume industry as he carried out extensive research and experiments in combining various plants and other sources to produce a variety of scent products. He elaborated a vast number of ‘recipes’ for a wide range of perfumes, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. His work in the laboratory is reported by a witness who said:
I received the following description, or recipe, from Abu Yusuf Ya'qub b. Ishaq al-Kindi, and I saw him making it and giving it an addition in my presence.
The writer goes on in the same section to speak of the preparation of a perfume called ghaliya, which contained musk, amber and other ingredients; too long to quote here, but which reveals a long list of technical names of drugs and apparatus.
Musk and floral perfumes were brought to Europe in the 11th and 12th centuries from Arabia, through trade with the Islamic world and with the returning Crusaders. Those who traded for these were most often also involved in trade for spices and dyestuffs. There are records of the Pepperers Guild of London, going back to 1179; which show them trading with Muslims in spices, perfume ingredients and dyes.[6]
Western
Knowledge of perfumery came to Europe as early as the 14th century due partially to Muslim influences and knowledge. During the Renaissance period, perfumes were used primarily by royalty and the wealthy to mask body odors resulting from the sanitary practices of the day. Partly due to this patronage, the western perfumery industry was created. By the 18th century, aromatic plants were being grown in the Grasse region of France to provide the growing perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, France remains the centre of the European perfume design and trade.
Perfumers were also known to create poisons; for instance, a French duchess was murdered when a perfume/poison was rubbed into her gloves and was slowly absorbed into her skin. [citation needed]
Health and ethical issues
In some cases, an excessive use of perfumes may cause allergic reactions of the skin. For instance, acetophenone, ethyl acetate and acetone while present in many perfumes, are also known or potential respiratory allergens.
Natural versus synthetic aromatics
Many natural aroma materials are in fact inherently toxic and are either banned or restricted by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). However, many synthetic materials are known carcinogens.
Many natural materials and essential oil contain the same chemicals used in perfumes that are classified as allergens, many of them at higher concentrations.
Perfume composed only of expensive natural materials can be very expensive. Synthetic aromatics make perfumes available at widely-affordable prices.
The use of some natural materials, like sandalwood, can lead to species endangerment and illegal trafficking.
In the distillation of natural essential oils any biocides (including pesticides, herbicides, or fungicides) that have been applied while the plant is growing may be concentrated into the essential oil making the oil toxic. Unless the essential oil is distilled from a certified "organic" origin, it may be dangerous.
There are many newly-created synthetic aromas that bear no olfactory relationship to any natural material; modern perfumery depends on these new odours for the wider variety of perfumes available today.
The move towards the almost exclusive use of synthetics in contemporary perfumery appears to have more to do with replicability and expense than concerns with safety. Natural ingredients vary even by where they are harvested, what time of year, and even the time of day. Chemicals, in contrast, are always reliably the same.
Natural musk
Musk was traditionally taken from the male musk deer Moschus moschiferus. This requires the killing of the animal in the process. Although the musk pod is produced only by a young male deer, musk hunters usually did not discriminate between the age and sex of the deers. Due to the high demand of musk and indiscriminate hunting, populations were severely depleted. As a result, the deer is now protected by law and international trade of musk from Moschus moschiferus is prohibited:
Musk deer are protected under national legislation in many countries where they are found. The musk deer populations of Afghanistan, Bhutan, India, Nepal and Pakistan are included in Appendix I of CITES, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora. This means that these musk deer and their derivatives are banned from international commercial trade. [1]
Due to the rarity and high price of natural musk, as well as for legal and ethical reasons, it is the policy of many perfume companies to use synthetic musk instead. Numerous synthetic musks of high quality are readily available and approved safe by IFRA. However, many synthetic musks have been found in human fat, mother's milk [2], and the bottom of the Great Lakes
Islamic
Islamic cultures contributed significantly in the development of western perfumery in both perfecting the extraction of fragrances through steam distillation and introducing new, raw ingredients. Both of the raw ingredients and distillation technology significantly influenced western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.
As traders, Islamic cultures such as the Arabs and Persians had wider access to different spices, herbals, and other fragrance material. In addition to trading them, many of these exotic materials were cultivated by the Muslims such that they can be successfully grown outside of their native climates. Two examples of this include jasmine, which is native to South and Southeast Asia, and various citrus, which are native to East Asia. Both of these ingredients are still highly important in modern perfumery.
In Islamic culture, perfume usage has been documented as far back as the 6th century and its usage is considered a religious duty. The Prophet Muhammad said:
The taking of a bath on Friday is compulsory for every male Muslim who has attained the age of puberty and (also) the cleaning of his teeth with Miswaak (type of twig used as a toothbrush), and the using of perfume if it is available. (Recorded in Sahih Bukhari).
Such rituals gave incentives to scholars to search and develop a cheaper way to produce incenses and in mass production. Thanks to the hard work of two talented chemists: Jabir ibn Hayyan (born 722, Iraq), and al-Kindi (born 801, Iraq) who established the perfume industry. Jabir developed many techniques, including distillation, evaporation and filtration, which enabled the collection of the odour of plants into a vapour that could be collected in the form of water or oil. [5]
Al-Kindi, however, was the real founder of perfume industry as he carried out extensive research and experiments in combining various plants and other sources to produce a variety of scent products. He elaborated a vast number of ‘recipes’ for a wide range of perfumes, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. His work in the laboratory is reported by a witness who said:
I received the following description, or recipe, from Abu Yusuf Ya'qub b. Ishaq al-Kindi, and I saw him making it and giving it an addition in my presence.
The writer goes on in the same section to speak of the preparation of a perfume called ghaliya, which contained musk, amber and other ingredients; too long to quote here, but which reveals a long list of technical names of drugs and apparatus.
Musk and floral perfumes were brought to Europe in the 11th and 12th centuries from Arabia, through trade with the Islamic world and with the returning Crusaders. Those who traded for these were most often also involved in trade for spices and dyestuffs. There are records of the Pepperers Guild of London, going back to 1179; which show them trading with Muslims in spices, perfume ingredients and dyes.[6]
Western
Knowledge of perfumery came to Europe as early as the 14th century due partially to Muslim influences and knowledge. During the Renaissance period, perfumes were used primarily by royalty and the wealthy to mask body odors resulting from the sanitary practices of the day. Partly due to this patronage, the western perfumery industry was created. By the 18th century, aromatic plants were being grown in the Grasse region of France to provide the growing perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, France remains the centre of the European perfume design and trade.
Perfumers were also known to create poisons; for instance, a French duchess was murdered when a perfume/poison was rubbed into her gloves and was slowly absorbed into her skin. [citation needed]
Health and ethical issues
In some cases, an excessive use of perfumes may cause allergic reactions of the skin. For instance, acetophenone, ethyl acetate and acetone while present in many perfumes, are also known or potential respiratory allergens.
Natural versus synthetic aromatics
Many natural aroma materials are in fact inherently toxic and are either banned or restricted by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). However, many synthetic materials are known carcinogens.
Many natural materials and essential oil contain the same chemicals used in perfumes that are classified as allergens, many of them at higher concentrations.
Perfume composed only of expensive natural materials can be very expensive. Synthetic aromatics make perfumes available at widely-affordable prices.
The use of some natural materials, like sandalwood, can lead to species endangerment and illegal trafficking.
In the distillation of natural essential oils any biocides (including pesticides, herbicides, or fungicides) that have been applied while the plant is growing may be concentrated into the essential oil making the oil toxic. Unless the essential oil is distilled from a certified "organic" origin, it may be dangerous.
There are many newly-created synthetic aromas that bear no olfactory relationship to any natural material; modern perfumery depends on these new odours for the wider variety of perfumes available today.
The move towards the almost exclusive use of synthetics in contemporary perfumery appears to have more to do with replicability and expense than concerns with safety. Natural ingredients vary even by where they are harvested, what time of year, and even the time of day. Chemicals, in contrast, are always reliably the same.
Natural musk
Musk was traditionally taken from the male musk deer Moschus moschiferus. This requires the killing of the animal in the process. Although the musk pod is produced only by a young male deer, musk hunters usually did not discriminate between the age and sex of the deers. Due to the high demand of musk and indiscriminate hunting, populations were severely depleted. As a result, the deer is now protected by law and international trade of musk from Moschus moschiferus is prohibited:
Musk deer are protected under national legislation in many countries where they are found. The musk deer populations of Afghanistan, Bhutan, India, Nepal and Pakistan are included in Appendix I of CITES, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora. This means that these musk deer and their derivatives are banned from international commercial trade. [1]
Due to the rarity and high price of natural musk, as well as for legal and ethical reasons, it is the policy of many perfume companies to use synthetic musk instead. Numerous synthetic musks of high quality are readily available and approved safe by IFRA. However, many synthetic musks have been found in human fat, mother's milk [2], and the bottom of the Great Lakes
What is Perfume?
Perfume
Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, objects, and living spaces a pleasant smell. The amount and type of solvent mix with the fragrance oil dictates whether a perfume is considered a perfume extract, Eau de parfum, Eau de toilette, or Eau de Cologne.
Description of a perfume
It is impossible to describe a perfume according to its components because the formulas are kept secret. Even if the formulas are known, the ingredients are often too numerous to provide a useful classification. Cognoscenti can, however, generally get a handle on the principal ingredients. On the other hand, it is possible to group perfumes into olfactive families and describe them through the notes that appear as they slowly evaporate. Perfumes can also be classified according to their concentration.
Olfactive families
Fragrances can be classified into several olfactive families, by the themes, or accords, of these fragrances.
Floral: Fragrances that are dominated by the scent of one or more types of flowers. When only one flower is used, it is called a soliflore (as in Dior's Diorissimo, with lily of the valley).
Chypre: Fragrances built on a similar accord consisting of bergamot, oakmoss, pachouli, and labdanum. This family of fragrances is named after a perfume by François Coty by the same name. Meaning Cyprus in French, the term alludes to the inspiration behind the original creation.
Aldehydic: Fragrances that incorporate the family of chemicals known as aldehydes. Chanel No 5 was the first aldehydic perfume (created by the French perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1921). Others include Je Reviens and Arpege. Aldehydic perfumes have the characteristic "piquant" note produced by materials like Aldehyde C12 MNA.
Fougère: Fragrances built on a base of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss. Many men's fragrances belong to this family of fragrances, which is characterized by its sharp herbaceous and woody scent.
Leather: A family of fragrances which features the scents honey, tobacco, wood, and wood tars in its middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather.
Woody: Fragrances that are dominated by the woody scents, typically of sandalwood and cedar. Patchouli, with its camphoraceous smell, is commonly found in these perfumes.
Orientals or ambers: A large fragrance class featuring the scents of vanilla and animal scents together with flowers and woods. Can be enhanced by camphorous oils and incense resins, which bring to mind Victorian era imagery of the Middle East and Far East.
Citrus: An old fragrance family that until recently consisted mainly of "freshening" eau de colognes due to the low tenacity of citrus scents. Development of newer fragrance compounds has allowed for the creation of primarily citrus fragrances.
Fragrance notes
A mixture of alcohol and water is used as the solvent for the aromatics. On application, body heat causes the solvent to quickly disperse, leaving the fragrance to evaporate gradually over several hours. The rate of evaporation (vapor pressure) and the odor strength of the compound partly determine the tenacity of the compound and determine its perfume note classification.
Top notes: Scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume. Top notes create the scents that form a person's initial impression of a perfume. Because of this, they are very important in the selling of a perfume. The scents of this note class are usually described as "fresh," "assertive" or "sharp." The compounds that contribute to top notes are strong in scent, very volatile, and evaporate quickly. Citrus and ginger scents are common top notes.
Heart notes or Middle notes: The scent of a perfume that emerges after the top notes dissipate. The heart note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. Not surprisingly, the scent of heart note compounds is usually more mellow and "rounded." Scents from this note class appear anywhere from 2 minutes to 1 hour after the application of a perfume. Lavender and rose scents are typical heart notes. Top notes and heart notes are sometimes described together as Head notes.
Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears after the departure of the top notes. The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidness to a perfume. Compounds of this class are often the fixatives used to hold and boost the strength of the lighter top and heart notes. The compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after the application of the perfume or during the period of perfume dry-down. Musk, vetiver and scents of plant resins are commonly used as base notes.
Concentration and composition
Perfumes oils, or the "juice" of perfume composition, are diluted with a suitable solvent to make the perfume more usable. This is done because undiluted oils (natural or synthetic) contain high concentrations of volatile components that will likely result in allergic reactions and possibly injury when applied directly to skin or clothing.
Although dilutions of the perfume oil can be done using solvents such as jojoba, fractionated coconut oil, and wax, the most common solvents for perfume oil dilution is ethanol or a mixture of ethanol and water. The percent of perfume oil by volume in a perfume is listed as follows:
Perfume extract: 20%-40% aromatic compounds
Eau de parfum: 10-30% aromatic compounds
Eau de toilette: 5-20% aromatic compounds
Eau de cologne: 2-3% aromatic compounds
As the percentage of aromatic compounds decreases, the intensity and longevity of the scent decrease. It should be noted that different perfumeries or perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes. As such, although the oil concentration of a perfume in eau de parfum (EDP) dilution will necessarily be higher than the same perfume in eau de toilette (EDT) form, the same trends may not necessarily apply to different perfume compositions much less across different perfume houses.
To complicate matters more, some fragrances with the same product name but having a different concentration name may not only differ in their dillutions, but actually use different perfume oil mixtures altogether. For instance, in order to make the EDT version of a fragrance brighter and fresher than its EDP, the EDT oil may be "tweaked" to contain slightly more top notes or less base notes. In some cases, words such as "extrême" or "concentrée" appended to frangrance names might indicate completely different frangrances that relates only because of a similar perfume accord. An instance to this would be Chanel‘s Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur Concentrée.
Natural and synthetic aromatics
[edit] Plant sources
Plants have long been used in perfumery as a source of essential oils and aroma compounds. These aromatics are usually secondary metabolites produced by plants as protection against herbivores, infections, as well as to attract pollinators. Plants are by far the largest source of fragrant compounds used in perfumery. The sources of these compounds may be derived from various parts of a plant. A plant can offer more than one source of aromatics, for instance the aerial portions and seeds of coriander have remarkably different odors from each other. Orange leaves, blossoms, and fruit zest are the respective sources of petit grain, neroli, and orange oils.
Flowers and blossoms: Undoubtedly the largest source of aromatics. Includes the flowers of several species of rose and jasmine, as well as osmanthus, mimosa, tuberose, as well as the blossoms of citrus and ylang-ylang trees. Although not traditionally thought of as a flower, the unopened flower buds of the clove are also commonly used. Orchid flowers are not commercially used to produce essential oils or absolutes, except in the case of vanilla, an orchid, which must be pollinated first and made into seed pods before use in perfumery.
Leaves and twigs: Commonly used for perfumery are lavender leaf, patchouli, sage, violets, rosemary, and citrus leaves. Sometimes leaves are valued for the "green" smell they bring to perfumes, examples of this include hay and tomato leaf.
Roots, rhizomes and bulbs: Commonly used terrestrial portions in perfumery include iris rhizomes, vetiver roots, various rhizomes of the ginger family.
Seeds: Commonly used seeds include tonka bean, coriander, caraway, cocoa, nutmeg, mace, cardamom, and anise.
Fruits: Fresh fruits such as apples, strawberries, cherries unfortunately do not yield the expected odors when extracted; if such fragrance notes are found in a perfume, they are synthetic. Notable exceptions include litsea cubeba, vanilla, and juniper berry. The most commonly used fruits yield their aromatics from the rind; they include citrus such as oranges, lemons, limes, and grapefruit.
Woods: Highly important in providing the base notes to a perfume, wood oils and distillates are indispensable in perfumery. Commonly used woods include sandalwood, rosewood, agarwood, birch, cedar, juniper, and pine.
Bark: Commonly used barks includes cinnamon and cascarilla. The fragrant oil in sassafras root bark is also used either directly or purified for its main constituent, safrole, which is used in the synthesis of other fragrant compounds such as helional.
Resins: Valued since antiquity, resins have been widely used in incense and perfumery. Highly fragrant and antiseptic resins and resin-containing perfumes have been used by many cultures as medicines for a large variety of ailments. Commonly used resins in perfumery include labdanum, frankincense/olibanum, myrrh, Peru balsam, gum benzoin. Pine and fir resins are a particularly valued source of terpenes used in the organic synthesis of many other synthetic or naturally occurring aromatic compounds. Some of what is called amber and copal in perfumery today is the resinous secretion of fossil conifers.
Lichens: Commonly used lichen includes oakmoss and treemoss thalli.
Animal sources
Musk: Originally derived from the musk sacs from the Asian musk deer, it has now been replaced by the use of synthetic musks due to its price and ethical issues.
Civet: Also called Civet Musk, this is obtained from the odorous sacs of the civets, animals in the family Viverridae, related to the Mongoose.
Castoreum: Obtained from the odorous sacs of the North American beaver.
Ambergris: Lumps of oxidized fatty compounds, whose precursors were secreted and expelled by the Sperm Whale. Ambergris is commonly referred as "amber" in perfumery and should not be confused with yellow amber, which is used in jewelry.
Honeycomb: Distilled from the honeycomb of the Honeybee.
Synthetic sources
Synthetic aromatics are created through organic synthesis from various chemical compounds that are obtained from petroleum distillates, pine resins, or other relatively cheap organic feedstock. Synthetics can provide fragrances which are not found in nature. For instance, Calone, a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh ozonous metallic marine scent that is widely used in contemporary perfumes. Synthetic aromatics are often used as an alternate source of compounds that are not easily obtained from natural sources. For example, linalool and coumarin are both naturally occurring compounds that can be cheaply synthesized from terpenes. Orchid scents (typically salicylates) are usually not obtained directly from the plant itself but are instead synthetically created to match the fragrant compounds found in various orchids.
The majority of the world's synthetic aromatics are created by relatively few companies. They include:
International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF)
Givaudan
Firmenich
Quest International
Takasago
Symrise
Mane SA
CPL
Each of these companies patent several processes for the production of aromatic synthetics annually.
See Aroma compound
Obtaining natural odorants
Main article: Extraction (fragrance)
Before perfumes can be composed, the odorants used in various perfume compositions must first be obtained. Synthetic odorants are produced through organic synthesis and purified. Odorants from natural sources require the use of various methods to extract the aromatics from the raw materials. The results of the extraction are either essential oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters, depending on the amount of waxes in the extracted product. [4]
All these techniques will to a certain extent, distort the odour of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw materials. This is due to the use of heat, harsh solvents, or through exposure to oxygen in the extraction process which will denature the aromatic compounds, which either change their odour character or renders them odourless.
Maceration/Solvent extraction: The most used and economically important technique for extracting aromatics in the modern perfume industry. Raw materials are submerged in a solvent that can dissolve the desired aromatic compounds. Maceration lasts anywhere from hours to months. Fragrant compounds for woody and fibrous plant materials are often obtained in this manner as are all aromatics from animal sources. The technique can also be used to extract odorants that are too volatile for distillation or easily denatured by heat. Commonly used solvents for maceration/solvent extraction include hexane, and dimethyl ether. The product of this process is called a "concrete".
Supercritical fluid extraction: A relatively new technique for extracting fragrant compounds from a raw material, which often employ Supercritical CO2. Due to the low heat of process and the relatively unreactive solvent used in the extraction, the fragrant compounds derived often closely resemble the original odour of the raw material.
Ethanol extraction: A type of solvent extraction used to extract fragrant compounds directly from dry raw materials, as well as the impure oily compounds materials resulting from solvent extraction or enfleurage. Ethanol extraction is not used to extract fragrance from fresh plant materials since these contain large quantities of water, which will also be extracted into the ethanol.
Distillation: A common technique for obtaining aromatic compounds from plants, such as orange blossoms and roses. The raw material is heated and the fragrant compounds are re-collected through condensation of the distilled vapour.
Steam distillation: Steam from boiling water is passed through the raw material, which drives out their volatile fragrant compounds. The condensate from distillation are settled in a Florentine flask. This allows for the easy separation of the fragrant oils from the water. The water collected from the condensate, which retains some of the fragrant compounds and oils from the raw material is called hydrosol and sometimes sold. This is most commonly used for fresh plant materials such as flowers, leaves, and stems.
Dry/destructive distillation: The raw materials are directly heated in a still without a carrier solvent such as water. Fragrant compounds that are released from the raw material by the high heat often undergo anhydrous pyrolysis, which results in the formation of different fragrant compounds, and thus different fragrant notes. This method is used to obtain fragrant compounds from fossil amber and fragrant woods where an intentional "burned" or "toasted" odour is desired.
Expression: Raw material is squeezed or compressed and the oils are collected. Of all raw materials, only the fragrant oils from the peels of fruits in the citrus family are extracted in this manner since the oil is present in large enough quantities as to make this extraction method economically feasible.
Enfleurage: Absorption of aroma materials into wax and then extracting the odorous oil with alcohol. Extraction by enfleurage was commonly used when distillation was not possible due to the fact that some fragrant compounds denature through high heat. This technique is not commonly used in the present day industry due to its prohibitive cost and the existence of more efficient and effective extraction methods. [2]
Fragrant extracts
Although fragrant extracts are known to the general public as the generic term "essential oils", a more specific language is used in the fragrance industry to describe the source, purity, and technique used to obtain a particular fragrant extract.
Of these extracts, only absolutes, essential oils, and tinctures are directly used to formulate perfumes.
Absolute: Fragrant materials that are purified from a pommade or concrete by soaking them in ethanol. By using a slightly hydrophilic compound such as ethanol, most of the fragrant compounds from the waxy source materials can be extracted without dissolving any of the fragrantless waxy molecules. Absolutes are usually found in the form of an oily liquid.
Concrete: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from raw materials through solvent extraction using volatile hydrocarbons. Concretes usually contain a large amount of wax due to the ease in which the solvents dissolve various hydrophobic compounds. As such concretes are usually further purified through distillation or ethanol based solvent extraction. Concretes are typically either waxy or resinous solids or thick oily liquids.
Essential oil: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from a source material directly through distillation or expression and obtained in the form of an oily liquid. Oils extracted through expression are sometimes called expression oils.
Pomade: A fragrant mass of solid fat created from the enfleurage process, in which odorous compounds in raw materials are adsorbed into animal fats. Pommades are found in the form of an oily and sticky solid.
Tincture: Fragrant materials produced by directly soaking and infusing raw materials in ethanol. Tinctures are typically thin liquids. [2]
Composing perfumes
Perfume compositions are an important part of many industries ranging from the luxury goods sectors, food services industries, to manufacturers of various household chemicals. The purpose of using perfume or fragrance compositions in these industries is to affect customers through their sense of smell and entice them into purchasing the perfume or perfumed product. As such there is significant interest in producing a perfume formulation that people will find aesthetically pleasing.
The Perfumer
The job of composing perfumes that will sell is left up to an expert on perfume composition or known in the fragrance industry as the perfumer. They are also sometimes referred to affectionately as "the Nose" due to their fine sense of smell and skill in smell composition. The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with their fragrance compositions. At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must not only have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each of the fragrance ingredients whether alone or in combination with other frangrances. As well, they must know how each ingredient reveals itself through time with other ingredients. The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists, who compose smells and flavourants for many commercial food products.
The composition of a perfume typically begins with a brief by the perfumer's employer or an outside customer. The customers to the perfumer or their employers, are typically fashion houses or large corporations of various industries. Each brief will contain the specifications for the desired perfume, and will describe in often poetic or abstract terms what the perfume should smell like or what feelings it should evoke in those who smell it, along with a maximum per litre price of the perfume oil concentrate. This allowance, along with the intended application of the perfume will determine what aromatics and fragrance ingrediants can/will be used in the perfume composition.
The perfumer will then go through the process of blending multiple perfume mixtures and will attempt to capture the desired feelings specified in the brief. After presenting the perfume mixtures to the customers, the perfumer may "win" the brief with their approval, and proceed to sell the formulation to the customer, often with modifications of the composition of the perfume. This process typically spans over several months to several years. The perfume composition will then be either used to enhance another product as a functional fragrance (shampoos, make-up, detergents, car interiors, etc.), or marketed and sold directly to the public as a fine fragrance.
Alternatively, the perfumer may simply be inspired to create a perfume and produce something that later becomes marketable or successfully wins a brief. This usually happens in smaller or independent perfume houses. [1]
Technique
Perfume oils usually contain tens to hundreds of ingredients. Included in the perfume are fixatives, which bind the various fragrances together, such as balsams, ambergris, and secretions from the scent glands of the civet cat and musk deer (undiluted, these have unpleasant smells but in alcoholic solution they act as preserving agents). The mixture is normally aged for one year. Animal products have not been used in the development of perfumes for decades but the old techniques are what people seem to remember. Most modern perfumes and colognes are made using the fragrance oils that the fragrances houses develop using essential oils and aromatic chemicals. The fragrance oils are then blended with alcohol and water, aged in tanks for a minimum of 14 days and filtered through processing equipment to remove any sediment and particles before the solution can be filled into the perfume bottles. Delbia Do Company(NYC)is one manufacturer of luxury niche perfumes that has a permit from the BATF(TTB) to manufacture perfumes / colognes using ethyl alcohol as well as being registered with the FDA as a manufacturer of Cosmetics.
Reverse engineering
Creating perfumes through reverse engineering with analytical techniques such as GC/MS can reveal some of the formula for a particular perfume but most perfumes are difficult to analyze because of their complexity, particularly due to presence of essential oils and other ingredients consisting of complex chemical mixtures. Recreating perfumes in this manner is very expensive, unless one has access to the same complex ingredients as the original formulators.
Furthermore the delibrate addition of inert ingredients to obscure the formula makes identification of components difficult. Antique or badly preserved perfumes undergoing this analysis can also be difficult due to the numerous degradation by-products and impurities that may have resulted from breakdown of the odourous compounds. However, these ingredients and compounds can usually be ruled-out or identified using gas chromatograph (GC) smellers, which allow individual chemical components to be identified both through their physical properties and their scent.
Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, objects, and living spaces a pleasant smell. The amount and type of solvent mix with the fragrance oil dictates whether a perfume is considered a perfume extract, Eau de parfum, Eau de toilette, or Eau de Cologne.
Description of a perfume
It is impossible to describe a perfume according to its components because the formulas are kept secret. Even if the formulas are known, the ingredients are often too numerous to provide a useful classification. Cognoscenti can, however, generally get a handle on the principal ingredients. On the other hand, it is possible to group perfumes into olfactive families and describe them through the notes that appear as they slowly evaporate. Perfumes can also be classified according to their concentration.
Olfactive families
Fragrances can be classified into several olfactive families, by the themes, or accords, of these fragrances.
Floral: Fragrances that are dominated by the scent of one or more types of flowers. When only one flower is used, it is called a soliflore (as in Dior's Diorissimo, with lily of the valley).
Chypre: Fragrances built on a similar accord consisting of bergamot, oakmoss, pachouli, and labdanum. This family of fragrances is named after a perfume by François Coty by the same name. Meaning Cyprus in French, the term alludes to the inspiration behind the original creation.
Aldehydic: Fragrances that incorporate the family of chemicals known as aldehydes. Chanel No 5 was the first aldehydic perfume (created by the French perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1921). Others include Je Reviens and Arpege. Aldehydic perfumes have the characteristic "piquant" note produced by materials like Aldehyde C12 MNA.
Fougère: Fragrances built on a base of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss. Many men's fragrances belong to this family of fragrances, which is characterized by its sharp herbaceous and woody scent.
Leather: A family of fragrances which features the scents honey, tobacco, wood, and wood tars in its middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather.
Woody: Fragrances that are dominated by the woody scents, typically of sandalwood and cedar. Patchouli, with its camphoraceous smell, is commonly found in these perfumes.
Orientals or ambers: A large fragrance class featuring the scents of vanilla and animal scents together with flowers and woods. Can be enhanced by camphorous oils and incense resins, which bring to mind Victorian era imagery of the Middle East and Far East.
Citrus: An old fragrance family that until recently consisted mainly of "freshening" eau de colognes due to the low tenacity of citrus scents. Development of newer fragrance compounds has allowed for the creation of primarily citrus fragrances.
Fragrance notes
A mixture of alcohol and water is used as the solvent for the aromatics. On application, body heat causes the solvent to quickly disperse, leaving the fragrance to evaporate gradually over several hours. The rate of evaporation (vapor pressure) and the odor strength of the compound partly determine the tenacity of the compound and determine its perfume note classification.
Top notes: Scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume. Top notes create the scents that form a person's initial impression of a perfume. Because of this, they are very important in the selling of a perfume. The scents of this note class are usually described as "fresh," "assertive" or "sharp." The compounds that contribute to top notes are strong in scent, very volatile, and evaporate quickly. Citrus and ginger scents are common top notes.
Heart notes or Middle notes: The scent of a perfume that emerges after the top notes dissipate. The heart note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. Not surprisingly, the scent of heart note compounds is usually more mellow and "rounded." Scents from this note class appear anywhere from 2 minutes to 1 hour after the application of a perfume. Lavender and rose scents are typical heart notes. Top notes and heart notes are sometimes described together as Head notes.
Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears after the departure of the top notes. The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidness to a perfume. Compounds of this class are often the fixatives used to hold and boost the strength of the lighter top and heart notes. The compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after the application of the perfume or during the period of perfume dry-down. Musk, vetiver and scents of plant resins are commonly used as base notes.
Concentration and composition
Perfumes oils, or the "juice" of perfume composition, are diluted with a suitable solvent to make the perfume more usable. This is done because undiluted oils (natural or synthetic) contain high concentrations of volatile components that will likely result in allergic reactions and possibly injury when applied directly to skin or clothing.
Although dilutions of the perfume oil can be done using solvents such as jojoba, fractionated coconut oil, and wax, the most common solvents for perfume oil dilution is ethanol or a mixture of ethanol and water. The percent of perfume oil by volume in a perfume is listed as follows:
Perfume extract: 20%-40% aromatic compounds
Eau de parfum: 10-30% aromatic compounds
Eau de toilette: 5-20% aromatic compounds
Eau de cologne: 2-3% aromatic compounds
As the percentage of aromatic compounds decreases, the intensity and longevity of the scent decrease. It should be noted that different perfumeries or perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes. As such, although the oil concentration of a perfume in eau de parfum (EDP) dilution will necessarily be higher than the same perfume in eau de toilette (EDT) form, the same trends may not necessarily apply to different perfume compositions much less across different perfume houses.
To complicate matters more, some fragrances with the same product name but having a different concentration name may not only differ in their dillutions, but actually use different perfume oil mixtures altogether. For instance, in order to make the EDT version of a fragrance brighter and fresher than its EDP, the EDT oil may be "tweaked" to contain slightly more top notes or less base notes. In some cases, words such as "extrême" or "concentrée" appended to frangrance names might indicate completely different frangrances that relates only because of a similar perfume accord. An instance to this would be Chanel‘s Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur Concentrée.
Natural and synthetic aromatics
[edit] Plant sources
Plants have long been used in perfumery as a source of essential oils and aroma compounds. These aromatics are usually secondary metabolites produced by plants as protection against herbivores, infections, as well as to attract pollinators. Plants are by far the largest source of fragrant compounds used in perfumery. The sources of these compounds may be derived from various parts of a plant. A plant can offer more than one source of aromatics, for instance the aerial portions and seeds of coriander have remarkably different odors from each other. Orange leaves, blossoms, and fruit zest are the respective sources of petit grain, neroli, and orange oils.
Flowers and blossoms: Undoubtedly the largest source of aromatics. Includes the flowers of several species of rose and jasmine, as well as osmanthus, mimosa, tuberose, as well as the blossoms of citrus and ylang-ylang trees. Although not traditionally thought of as a flower, the unopened flower buds of the clove are also commonly used. Orchid flowers are not commercially used to produce essential oils or absolutes, except in the case of vanilla, an orchid, which must be pollinated first and made into seed pods before use in perfumery.
Leaves and twigs: Commonly used for perfumery are lavender leaf, patchouli, sage, violets, rosemary, and citrus leaves. Sometimes leaves are valued for the "green" smell they bring to perfumes, examples of this include hay and tomato leaf.
Roots, rhizomes and bulbs: Commonly used terrestrial portions in perfumery include iris rhizomes, vetiver roots, various rhizomes of the ginger family.
Seeds: Commonly used seeds include tonka bean, coriander, caraway, cocoa, nutmeg, mace, cardamom, and anise.
Fruits: Fresh fruits such as apples, strawberries, cherries unfortunately do not yield the expected odors when extracted; if such fragrance notes are found in a perfume, they are synthetic. Notable exceptions include litsea cubeba, vanilla, and juniper berry. The most commonly used fruits yield their aromatics from the rind; they include citrus such as oranges, lemons, limes, and grapefruit.
Woods: Highly important in providing the base notes to a perfume, wood oils and distillates are indispensable in perfumery. Commonly used woods include sandalwood, rosewood, agarwood, birch, cedar, juniper, and pine.
Bark: Commonly used barks includes cinnamon and cascarilla. The fragrant oil in sassafras root bark is also used either directly or purified for its main constituent, safrole, which is used in the synthesis of other fragrant compounds such as helional.
Resins: Valued since antiquity, resins have been widely used in incense and perfumery. Highly fragrant and antiseptic resins and resin-containing perfumes have been used by many cultures as medicines for a large variety of ailments. Commonly used resins in perfumery include labdanum, frankincense/olibanum, myrrh, Peru balsam, gum benzoin. Pine and fir resins are a particularly valued source of terpenes used in the organic synthesis of many other synthetic or naturally occurring aromatic compounds. Some of what is called amber and copal in perfumery today is the resinous secretion of fossil conifers.
Lichens: Commonly used lichen includes oakmoss and treemoss thalli.
Animal sources
Musk: Originally derived from the musk sacs from the Asian musk deer, it has now been replaced by the use of synthetic musks due to its price and ethical issues.
Civet: Also called Civet Musk, this is obtained from the odorous sacs of the civets, animals in the family Viverridae, related to the Mongoose.
Castoreum: Obtained from the odorous sacs of the North American beaver.
Ambergris: Lumps of oxidized fatty compounds, whose precursors were secreted and expelled by the Sperm Whale. Ambergris is commonly referred as "amber" in perfumery and should not be confused with yellow amber, which is used in jewelry.
Honeycomb: Distilled from the honeycomb of the Honeybee.
Synthetic sources
Synthetic aromatics are created through organic synthesis from various chemical compounds that are obtained from petroleum distillates, pine resins, or other relatively cheap organic feedstock. Synthetics can provide fragrances which are not found in nature. For instance, Calone, a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh ozonous metallic marine scent that is widely used in contemporary perfumes. Synthetic aromatics are often used as an alternate source of compounds that are not easily obtained from natural sources. For example, linalool and coumarin are both naturally occurring compounds that can be cheaply synthesized from terpenes. Orchid scents (typically salicylates) are usually not obtained directly from the plant itself but are instead synthetically created to match the fragrant compounds found in various orchids.
The majority of the world's synthetic aromatics are created by relatively few companies. They include:
International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF)
Givaudan
Firmenich
Quest International
Takasago
Symrise
Mane SA
CPL
Each of these companies patent several processes for the production of aromatic synthetics annually.
See Aroma compound
Obtaining natural odorants
Main article: Extraction (fragrance)
Before perfumes can be composed, the odorants used in various perfume compositions must first be obtained. Synthetic odorants are produced through organic synthesis and purified. Odorants from natural sources require the use of various methods to extract the aromatics from the raw materials. The results of the extraction are either essential oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters, depending on the amount of waxes in the extracted product. [4]
All these techniques will to a certain extent, distort the odour of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw materials. This is due to the use of heat, harsh solvents, or through exposure to oxygen in the extraction process which will denature the aromatic compounds, which either change their odour character or renders them odourless.
Maceration/Solvent extraction: The most used and economically important technique for extracting aromatics in the modern perfume industry. Raw materials are submerged in a solvent that can dissolve the desired aromatic compounds. Maceration lasts anywhere from hours to months. Fragrant compounds for woody and fibrous plant materials are often obtained in this manner as are all aromatics from animal sources. The technique can also be used to extract odorants that are too volatile for distillation or easily denatured by heat. Commonly used solvents for maceration/solvent extraction include hexane, and dimethyl ether. The product of this process is called a "concrete".
Supercritical fluid extraction: A relatively new technique for extracting fragrant compounds from a raw material, which often employ Supercritical CO2. Due to the low heat of process and the relatively unreactive solvent used in the extraction, the fragrant compounds derived often closely resemble the original odour of the raw material.
Ethanol extraction: A type of solvent extraction used to extract fragrant compounds directly from dry raw materials, as well as the impure oily compounds materials resulting from solvent extraction or enfleurage. Ethanol extraction is not used to extract fragrance from fresh plant materials since these contain large quantities of water, which will also be extracted into the ethanol.
Distillation: A common technique for obtaining aromatic compounds from plants, such as orange blossoms and roses. The raw material is heated and the fragrant compounds are re-collected through condensation of the distilled vapour.
Steam distillation: Steam from boiling water is passed through the raw material, which drives out their volatile fragrant compounds. The condensate from distillation are settled in a Florentine flask. This allows for the easy separation of the fragrant oils from the water. The water collected from the condensate, which retains some of the fragrant compounds and oils from the raw material is called hydrosol and sometimes sold. This is most commonly used for fresh plant materials such as flowers, leaves, and stems.
Dry/destructive distillation: The raw materials are directly heated in a still without a carrier solvent such as water. Fragrant compounds that are released from the raw material by the high heat often undergo anhydrous pyrolysis, which results in the formation of different fragrant compounds, and thus different fragrant notes. This method is used to obtain fragrant compounds from fossil amber and fragrant woods where an intentional "burned" or "toasted" odour is desired.
Expression: Raw material is squeezed or compressed and the oils are collected. Of all raw materials, only the fragrant oils from the peels of fruits in the citrus family are extracted in this manner since the oil is present in large enough quantities as to make this extraction method economically feasible.
Enfleurage: Absorption of aroma materials into wax and then extracting the odorous oil with alcohol. Extraction by enfleurage was commonly used when distillation was not possible due to the fact that some fragrant compounds denature through high heat. This technique is not commonly used in the present day industry due to its prohibitive cost and the existence of more efficient and effective extraction methods. [2]
Fragrant extracts
Although fragrant extracts are known to the general public as the generic term "essential oils", a more specific language is used in the fragrance industry to describe the source, purity, and technique used to obtain a particular fragrant extract.
Of these extracts, only absolutes, essential oils, and tinctures are directly used to formulate perfumes.
Absolute: Fragrant materials that are purified from a pommade or concrete by soaking them in ethanol. By using a slightly hydrophilic compound such as ethanol, most of the fragrant compounds from the waxy source materials can be extracted without dissolving any of the fragrantless waxy molecules. Absolutes are usually found in the form of an oily liquid.
Concrete: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from raw materials through solvent extraction using volatile hydrocarbons. Concretes usually contain a large amount of wax due to the ease in which the solvents dissolve various hydrophobic compounds. As such concretes are usually further purified through distillation or ethanol based solvent extraction. Concretes are typically either waxy or resinous solids or thick oily liquids.
Essential oil: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from a source material directly through distillation or expression and obtained in the form of an oily liquid. Oils extracted through expression are sometimes called expression oils.
Pomade: A fragrant mass of solid fat created from the enfleurage process, in which odorous compounds in raw materials are adsorbed into animal fats. Pommades are found in the form of an oily and sticky solid.
Tincture: Fragrant materials produced by directly soaking and infusing raw materials in ethanol. Tinctures are typically thin liquids. [2]
Composing perfumes
Perfume compositions are an important part of many industries ranging from the luxury goods sectors, food services industries, to manufacturers of various household chemicals. The purpose of using perfume or fragrance compositions in these industries is to affect customers through their sense of smell and entice them into purchasing the perfume or perfumed product. As such there is significant interest in producing a perfume formulation that people will find aesthetically pleasing.
The Perfumer
The job of composing perfumes that will sell is left up to an expert on perfume composition or known in the fragrance industry as the perfumer. They are also sometimes referred to affectionately as "the Nose" due to their fine sense of smell and skill in smell composition. The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with their fragrance compositions. At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must not only have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each of the fragrance ingredients whether alone or in combination with other frangrances. As well, they must know how each ingredient reveals itself through time with other ingredients. The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists, who compose smells and flavourants for many commercial food products.
The composition of a perfume typically begins with a brief by the perfumer's employer or an outside customer. The customers to the perfumer or their employers, are typically fashion houses or large corporations of various industries. Each brief will contain the specifications for the desired perfume, and will describe in often poetic or abstract terms what the perfume should smell like or what feelings it should evoke in those who smell it, along with a maximum per litre price of the perfume oil concentrate. This allowance, along with the intended application of the perfume will determine what aromatics and fragrance ingrediants can/will be used in the perfume composition.
The perfumer will then go through the process of blending multiple perfume mixtures and will attempt to capture the desired feelings specified in the brief. After presenting the perfume mixtures to the customers, the perfumer may "win" the brief with their approval, and proceed to sell the formulation to the customer, often with modifications of the composition of the perfume. This process typically spans over several months to several years. The perfume composition will then be either used to enhance another product as a functional fragrance (shampoos, make-up, detergents, car interiors, etc.), or marketed and sold directly to the public as a fine fragrance.
Alternatively, the perfumer may simply be inspired to create a perfume and produce something that later becomes marketable or successfully wins a brief. This usually happens in smaller or independent perfume houses. [1]
Technique
Perfume oils usually contain tens to hundreds of ingredients. Included in the perfume are fixatives, which bind the various fragrances together, such as balsams, ambergris, and secretions from the scent glands of the civet cat and musk deer (undiluted, these have unpleasant smells but in alcoholic solution they act as preserving agents). The mixture is normally aged for one year. Animal products have not been used in the development of perfumes for decades but the old techniques are what people seem to remember. Most modern perfumes and colognes are made using the fragrance oils that the fragrances houses develop using essential oils and aromatic chemicals. The fragrance oils are then blended with alcohol and water, aged in tanks for a minimum of 14 days and filtered through processing equipment to remove any sediment and particles before the solution can be filled into the perfume bottles. Delbia Do Company(NYC)is one manufacturer of luxury niche perfumes that has a permit from the BATF(TTB) to manufacture perfumes / colognes using ethyl alcohol as well as being registered with the FDA as a manufacturer of Cosmetics.
Reverse engineering
Creating perfumes through reverse engineering with analytical techniques such as GC/MS can reveal some of the formula for a particular perfume but most perfumes are difficult to analyze because of their complexity, particularly due to presence of essential oils and other ingredients consisting of complex chemical mixtures. Recreating perfumes in this manner is very expensive, unless one has access to the same complex ingredients as the original formulators.
Furthermore the delibrate addition of inert ingredients to obscure the formula makes identification of components difficult. Antique or badly preserved perfumes undergoing this analysis can also be difficult due to the numerous degradation by-products and impurities that may have resulted from breakdown of the odourous compounds. However, these ingredients and compounds can usually be ruled-out or identified using gas chromatograph (GC) smellers, which allow individual chemical components to be identified both through their physical properties and their scent.
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